how to change a rotor

Monday, October 24, 2011

I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?

what should i do about that? and what product? and how to use it? and should i change my plugs and cap n rotor?I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?You don't put any product in besides a good quality oil. I know there will be some supposed mechanics that say use this or that but if you change the oil and filter at the recommended interval, you won't need any of these %26quot;canned fixes%26quot;. The cap and rotor should be changed when doing a tune-up.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?you can pu whatever Oil you want in it it wont fix the lifter... it just means you have lash in your valve train and could be fixed on most cars with a socket.. if its an overhead cam don't remove your valve cover but if its a ohv that is not positive stop you just twist the bolt on the top of the rocker arm until it stops ticking back it up until it ticks again than just tighten it up until it stops than one full turn to put a load on the lifter.... be care full not to go to tighten to far because you will end up just smashing your valve into the piston... that will be a worse problem than the ticking noiseI have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?While I'm not a proponent of the %26quot;miracle in a can%26quot; elixirs you can pour into your car, they do have their place. You can try one of the additives designed to quiet/clean lifters ..usually they are a concentrated blend of detergents that are normally found in motor oil. Another %26quot;fix%26quot; is to dump a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with your next oi change. Some %26quot;home remedies%26quot; are adding a quart of diesel fuel, or transmission fluid or using a crankcase flush at your next oil change.

Changing your plugs cap and rotor are typically tune-up items and, while good for your car, they will do nothing to quiet your noisy lifter.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?Lifters and rotors ain't even related. Put in some STP, and then change the oil in 1,000 or so and do it again. You will probably hear of 46579876 different additives which work well, and they probably all do.

It just needs a little extra lube.

dry hair

data into xsds

Brake problems on Pontiac G6?

Brake problems on Pontiac G6???

I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6???You are still under warranty. Pontiac will replace the complete brake assembly if they have to. Call the number, keep pushing them.

Even tho you exceeded the number of miles under your warranty, since the problem started when it was under warranty, you are still covered.

Try a different dealer, this one seems clueless.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???If the problem is like the one on my Malibu, go aftermarket. When new, my Malibu ate the first set of pads in 18k. I changed them w/lifetime aftermarket pads. By not using a factory pad, it solved the close tolerance problem, you appear to be experiencing. I'm at 80k w/no problems worth mentioning. I replaced the rotors aftermarket also on the one pad change I did do.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???The major mistake most consumers make is buying lifetime brake pads. Then they wonder why their rotors are eat-up all the time.

Best bet.. buy Bendix aftermarket rotors.. buy low cost pads.. replace pads as needed.

Some drivers are tough on brakes.. lay off the Mario Andretti driving skills.. if that is a problem.

Does this help any?Brake problems on Pontiac G6???It really sounds like thats too often to turn the rotors bec that's only 5,000 kms no need for turning rotors every 5,000 kms or around 3,000 miles thats in fact strange, unless there's a fault , if I'm right from what your saying the rotors keep getting grooves in them? If so the pads would need also to be replaced at the same exact time too. Yes if you feel something like your saying that means the pads aren't grabbing the rotors right or the rotors have rough or uneven surfaces. Indeed what you say about the calipers being faulty or acting up is what I'd say it is, other wise it has to be faulty new parts being installed.

Gosh if you knew how often I turn mine you'd really wonder why thier doing that. On any car I drive on avgerage I do my brakes every 3 to 5 yrs or every 50,000 to 70,000 miles or so.Although I do check them once a yr or so regularly.Keep in mind I'm very light on my brakes and most people have done thier brakes about 3 times or 5 times by the time I've do mine.

I think thier doing work just to get paid by the manufacture under warranty. or indeed theres some kind of faulty parts like the pads aren't right or theres infact dirt in the calipers causing them to grab unevenly. Although these mechanics should of caught this problem already.Keep in mind the rear braking system can cause very weird and even unthinkable problems in the front braking system if the rear brakes aren't right too.

One time I had brought my car in for a brake check to just be sure they were okay and knowing that my rear brake drums had a bit of a metal inner edge on them inside.The mechanic drove it and checked the brakes saying they were fine and asked my whyI brought my car even in to them.Then in another breathe he said in fact that my drums needed replacing bec of that edge I already knew of. He said I could just change the drums bec the brake shoes were fine. I was wondering if he was wrong bec from my knowledge once you change drums or turn them you automatically change the shoes.Plus to me the old shoes will end up screwing up the new drums but since I'm not a real mechanic and that guy has yrs of shop brake repair experience , I did as he said.

I was right never should of listened to him bec now my car's front brakes were being affected by the back brakes, thus my cars right front wheel brakes were grabbing wiredly and causing the a some kind of rubbing and now the wheel was pulling when braking. It ended up.I thought I better try sanding down the old drums with fine sandpaper and doing the same to the old shoes and simply putting the old drums back on.It ended up I was right the new drums , one of them now was damaged inside and the old drums and old shoes worked fine and the front brakes were prefect once again. So theres a perfect example how so called experts tell us things that we know ourselves does'nt make quite logical sense but bec thier supposely the experts we listen to them and end up having headaches.

That call thier mentioning is probaly some hot line customer service manufacture number . If this this something that keeps reoccurring due to the cars literally having brake system failers since new then they'd probaly agree to extend your warranty free of charge just for the brakes.

You know in your case I'd phone the head office and raise heck demanding they completely overhaul and check the front ends brakes and rears and fix the faults asap.If you get slack demand to talk to thier boss or supervisor etc.

Anyways best of luck and I highly doubt thier give you any slack bec you've the maintance records to prove it, plus the dealshership to back you up too. But I suggest you make this call asap.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???Are you one of those that let your foot rest on the brake pedal all the time you're driving? Just the weight of your foot will keep pressure on the brake pads and cause rotor overheating and excessive brake wear.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???call frog!! JD

How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?

Do I need to do anything special for the rotors? I have new spark plugs, and wanna change the oil tooHow to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?make sure you check to see that its not seized up. then pour a cap full of power steering fluid into each housing, bottom plugs, and let it sit for a few minutes. then fire it up, it will smoke like hell for a little bit but the power steering fluid helps make sure the apex seals dont damage the housing, the smoke will go away. then after a while make sure you do a compression test on it. it should have atleast 85psi on both rotors, if not then it will need to be rebuilt.How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?Get a new battery. change out the oil. just crank it up. make sure you don't flood the engine because the rotory engine is a ***** to restart after it's flooded.

Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?

I'm a single mother who's brakes just went. I don't have a lot of money and can't afford to take my car into a dealership. I'm VERY good with my hands and I don't mind getting dirty (please no smart comments). I've never dont any car repair but i have done a little research. My question is how hard will it be to change my brake pads and rotors by myself being that i've never done a car repair on my own. (I've built plenty of things around the house...) And, also any suggestions?Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?well ususally it is not too hard. depends on the vehicle. go to a local parts store and get yourelf a repair manual for your car. it will tell you step by step with pictures. usually its just a couple bolts you have to remove.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?those damn rusted nuts are hard to get off there... I've tried and I went to a garage 1 hour after. Can't take that damn top nut off.( the one holding the break pad cylinders casing ) Don't go to a dealership, any mexican can do that. Brakes would be easy to change if everything was like new... the rotors are the easy part.

try anyway, if all the nuts unscrew , you're good to go.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Changing the rotors can be a little difficult you may want someone for support but I can change break pads with my eyes closed, just find a good how to book or site.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Doing brakes is a little more difficult than say painting around the house. Your life as well as others is in jeapordy if done incorrectly. I would suggest not doing brake work if you've never worked on cars before. Try learning oil changes, airing your tires, changing your air filter etc.....I suggest if you have your own parts, find a shop that will install your parts and have them do the work. There wont be a warranty if you furnish the parts but the cost would be around 100 dollars. Either that or find a friend that has done some brake work and pay them.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?brakes are not difficult, at least I don't think so anyway, I just buy the parts and they have a repair manual at the auto parts store.

The name of the books you can get for your car is either Chilton, or Hayes, they are specific to your car, or similar models. Example; I have a Mercury Grand Marquis, and the book covers the Ford Crown Victoria which is the same thing.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Brakes are Very important, please only do them if you have a experienced friend, you'll need a friend to help you bleed the lines ( any air in the brake line will compress when you push the brake, instead of applying the pressure to the disk/drum)

Good LuckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?I certainly admire your determination and willingness to do your own brake work, but because you have admittedly never done any auto repairs - I would highly recommend that you don't start with a brake job. Perhaps a water pump or something similar - if you don't do it correctly, it still leaks - no big deal - but brakes? If you do this incorrectly, it could be a very big deal. Perhaps you know someone with a little experience and he or she could assist you? If not - bite the bullet and take it into a service shop.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?some tools and a c-clamp you can do it pretty quickly. Be careful it takes special tools to remove some calipers. AutoZone will tell you if you need specialty tools.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?youtube and expert village.com offer really good videos to tell you how to do these things . good luckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Although I would love to make some %26quot;smart%26quot; comments about your %26quot;getting dirty%26quot; remark, I'll refrain.

Changing brakepads and maybe rotors by yourself for the first time will be impossible. You will likely not do it right and cause an accident or wind up leaving your car in a condition where it cannot be brought to a mechanic.

What you need to do is have someone there with experience who has done this before.

Some cars have rotors that can be slapped on without even spinning a bolt, some require specialized tools.

You'll need the following for brake pads:

1. new brakepads

2. brake fluid - a bottle

3. a large C-clamp

4. appropriate drivers - philips head, flat head, sparx, etc

5. A good pair of pliers.

You will need to remember to collapse the caliper and bleed the brakes. Remember to loosen that nut looking thing on the caliper to allow brake fluid to seep before you colapse it.

Once you have done this a couple of times, this becomes old hat. It becomes easy and a great way to save money.

Best of luck with this, you can do it!

Finally, I'd also like to say that it is very, very sexy when a woman changes her own brakes. Especially if she's wearing blue denim overalls that are a couple of sizes too big and a skin tight white tank top.... so... what are you doing later? heheChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?there are alot of little details that go into a good brake job as apposed to one that will shake after few weeks of driving,supporting vehicle safely ,tools and chemicals make the first time expensive after that its not to bad .as an ex mechanis i have all the stuff so it takes me about an hour and 1/2 to do it in the driveway with out air tools, if you do it wrong best case is the car is stuck in your driveway worst is you crash.find someone whos done it and buy them some beer to sit and watch/advise you.its easier to talk them into watching then kneeling on the concrete for a couple of hoursChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just as long as you dont mind getting dirty you didnt say what kind of car it is but about the best advice I can give you is go to the parts store where you got your pads and get a repair manual for your car it has step by step instructions with pictures as far as your rotors go you probably wont need them unless they have really deep grooves in them i mean almost through to the other side deep I have seen it happen before where the pads were past the rivits but anyhow 9 times out of 10 you can just have them turned but its not a requirement and while your out you might want to get some hand cleaner your going to need it if you need any help feel free to contact me directChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?best solution. go to your local auto zone. and get some advice. you will need a big clamp, maybe about 12 - 16 inches. a Big one. for your brakes. then they will help you with the rotors. you may have to have them turned good idea to do that. auto zone guys will help you. or find a good friend to help you. its about 30 min a side for your brakes you can do it.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?EASY JOB. Get the wheels off, and unbolt the brake calipers from the spindle(if the bolts are tough get a can of PB blaster and spray'em up). you'll also wanna pick up a brake pad spreader(to push the pistons back in) then just replace the pads. once you get the calipers off the rotor will come right off, just put the new one on(make sure they're clean!) and slide the caliper w/new pads back over the rotor and bolt it back on. put the wheel back on and you're done!

BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID AND PUMP UP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO DRIVE. If they stay soft or spongy, you'll have to bleed them. you'll need help with that.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?it is a very easy job to do brake pads and rotors. all u have to do is pull the two slide bolts that hold that caliper on, and use a clamp to push the inside cylinder of the brake caliper in. then just pull of the rotor, put the new rotor on, slap the new pads in, put it back into place, and put the bolts back in. use the manual to verify the parts. it is a very very easy job and a good way to pick up mechanical knowledge.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Some cars require a puller of press to remove the rotors. But if you don't need this, it's easy. Just read a repair manual before you start to make sure you can do all the required work and have the proper tools on hand. It's frustrating to need to drive to the parts store when you've already taken your car apart!Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just chipping in another word of encouragement to try doing it yourself.

The sites listed above will help. This one explains it too.

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/a

If you have Anti-Lock Brakes you need to bleed the brakes just a little. If you're not sure if you have them look for an ABS light when you start your car. Bleeding brakes is easy but it really helps to have someone step on the brakes for you, by the way. The other way I've done it myself is to prop a stick between the brake pedal and the driver's seat and scoot the seat up until it depresses the pedal. Then you go out, loosen the valve a little to release the fluid until it doesn't shoot out very much anymore then quickly retighten it so no air gets in. Then scoot the seat back and start over again one more time if you want or do it for the other side.

Also, if you're really looking to save money don't buy the brake cleaner. Maybe it helps but I don't and all the brakes I've done have worked fine.

Consider checking to see if your local parts store can turn (polish/clean up) your rotors instead of buying new ones. It's about $7.50 vs about $40 for new.

How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?

I have changed the bakes, caliper, rubber hoses and rotors...Bled the brakes but for some reason the front passenger side gets stuck. And there is a nasty smell too. The brake pedal also hardens...But if I step on the brake hard it releases preassure and Im able to drive again. Could it be that I need to replace the master cylinder?How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?Sounds like a problem with the caliper to me.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?The smell could be the parking brake, and the hard pedal I cannot say. I would recommend going to a reliable mechanic and getting that checked out.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?It sounds as if the brake system is not releasing hydraulic pressure when you let off of the pedal. You need to check the clearance of the master cylinder push rod. It is difficult to do without a special tool but here is the gist of it. Take off the brake master cylinder. Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole in it where the push rod goes to the surface where it mounts on the brake booster. Measure the distance from the tip of the push rod to surface to the brake booster where the master cylinder goes. These should be the same or maybe the push rod length just a touch less. If the push rod length is greater than the depth of the hole it goes into the master cylinder is not allowed to return keeping the brakes on. If this distance checks out you probably have a problem with the master cylinder. If you install a new master cylinder be sure to check the push rod depth as described above. The depth can be adjusted by holding the splines on the push rod and turning the end in or out.

hold the tough drive freshly founder

fish

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?

Can some one give me the procedure for replacing the lower ball joints on a 99 gmc yukon 4wd. It has torsion bars, how do I loosen them and how much? Could I just keep a jack under the control arm instead? 聽The ball joints are the press in type and I have rented a ball joint press from the auto store. Please dont give me the %26quot;save my time and my knuckles and pay someone to do it%26quot; speech, I have all the time in the world, it's a second vehicle, and I'm willing to cut my knuckles to save $400.00. I have changed the breaks and rotors, shocks and the front drive shafts on this truck previously so I am capable of doing the job, I just need the procedure.

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars? Just keep a floor jack under the lower control arm, seperate the lower ball joint from the spindle, and use a ball joint press.Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?On flat ground measure your ground to frame distance first (write it down)

Then set the truck up securly on jack standS on it's Frame.

unscrew the tension bolts in the torsion bars untill the tension is relived compleatly.

remove the tension rods and your control arms.

I use 2 HD sockets and a mini sledge hammer to %26quot;press%26quot; my bushings in and out.

1 socket to catch or cup/lift the bushing , and 1 to drive it in or out with a mini sledge .

lightly Greease the contact surfaces B4 installing , it helps much more.

Once you get it back together , try to set your torsion bolts as close as you took them off at.

your final tension bolt adjustment (the measurement) will come when the truck is back setting on all 4 wheels.

If you don't have a book...............Spend $20 and get one first.

You will find a repair book is worth much more then $20

This is one %26quot;Tonka%26quot; of a repair proceedure though.

Not hard but big parts.

Safety is essential

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Mark the end of the torsion bar and the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar you can tighten them back to the same spot. Just use a paint stick or markerReplacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Not necessary to remove torsion bars. Just keep a jack under the control arm, then disconnect and press out the ball joint. And if you don't have a ball joint press, a big hammer and a couple of appropriately sized impact sockets will do the job just fine.