I was waiting in a parking space for a friend for 10 minutes and my 96 accord was running hot (temp gauge at 3/4) and I noticed some stem under the hood. I checked under the hood and the fan was not on and I could see a hairline crack on the radiator causing the steam. I let it cool down and then drove home with the temp gauge fluctuating from normal (1/3) to hot (3/4). At home I sealed the crack with putty and filled the radiator back up with coolant (needed 1/2 a bottle). I waited 24 hours for the putty to seal and test drove it 15 minutes and the coolant was leaking slightly but not steaming as before. I parked it with the plan to replace the radiator the next day but when I tried to start it, it would not turn over. I eliminated fuel delivery, the electrical lights on dash worked when the ignition is at on position, and I checked the oil which showed no signs of white coffee residue (ie. head gasket/ head damage). I already had a new rotor and cap so I removed the old one which was very worn out and replaced it. I tried to start it up and now it reluctantly turned over but it was running really rough. I turned it off and pulled a plug and it had alot of black carbon build up with a strong gas odor and looked pretty worn even though I replaced them about 6 months ago. The oil looks clean of any white residue still. Does this seem like a timing issue possibly? I didn't think me replacing the rotor %26amp; cap would cause a timing problem since the rotor was removed by a screw and the shaft it was on seemed to be in a locked postion. On my car, I believe there is a bolt/screw under the cap on the block that adjusts the timing since my cap is secured in one postion and does not move. Does this seem like a timing issue from what I explained?....and can I adjust the timing myself or how much should that cost?96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?Do the basics, check the firing order, inspect and test the cables .96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?sounds to me like a firing order issue.if you have two wires in reverse of where they're supposed to be it will run just rough as hell and it will be hard to start.I would also take an ohm reading on the plug wires, it seems that they are not good,you shouldn't have a build up on them unless your burning oil. the other possibility is that you have a bad head gasket between cylinders,is it smoking white?96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?Here is a common one that we all make every once in a while: You sure you didn't get a couple of the plug wires crossed up when you changed the Distributor cap:
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Also if your plugs are carbon-ed up they will need to be changed as well. Could be one or two of them fouling out on you.
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Also good idea while at it to change the plug wires as well:
I always follow a rule of thumb when doing a tune up on my vehicles: Change the plugs, change the plug wires, change the rotor cap, change the distributor cap, change the coil wire and change the coil. Saves a lot of trouble down the road.
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And if it has a timing belt every 100,000 miles change the timing belt. With a factory timing belt not some sub-standard after market belt.
Ok that was the easy fixes: If that doesn't work.
You might have blown a head gasket or, warped the head or burnt [bent] a valve when the engine over heated. It doesn't take much with these aluminum heads most cars are running to warp them.
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Also these so-called new and improved [over the ones used years ago ] will blow on you in a heart beat with the least overheating.
These new improved head gaskets are NOT like the old head gaskets that you could get an engine so hot it would almost lock up on you and not blow [ the old ] the head gaskets.
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Let's face the new engines might be more precision made and lighter: But when it comes to the stout department they just ain't got it compared to the older heavy lead sled engines of years past.96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?i would,nt fool with the timing just now. go back over your work. are you sure the plug wires are on the right plug and the cap? what about the rotor, is it locked in place so it wont spin on it,s own? if all else fails then put number 1 piston all the way up and check the rotor. if the timing did,nt slip then the rotor should be pointing to number 1 plug wire on the cap.96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?recheck your wires for proper firing of the cylinders and test the spark plug wires for proper resistance flow.
you CAN adjust the timing simply by moving the distributor cap. That's a likely culprit here. Loosen slightly, move fwd or back slightly as u do. I liked to put wheel bearing grease on the miunts to make sliding the distributor easier w/o going overboard so teh adjustments are in mm's with each push.
Lastly your air/fuel could be out of whack so hook up an OB scanner. Connection should be under the steering wheel or behind ash tray. 96 accord- do it yourself. I suggest u join some honda clubs to get better acquainted with the minor issues with specific honda owners. I have a 2007 now and still use my clubs.
hondaclub
accordtuner
honda-acura.net
acurazine (look for a 97 CL- same car more or less. F23 or F22 engines)96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?maybe you have not put your Ht leads back on in order, HT means high tension, these are the leads that connect your cap to your spark plugs.
If you have some properly insulated piiers then you can remove one at a time( at spark plug end) while engine is running,if engine cuts out or slows right down when you disconnect then you know that that particu;ar one is in right place, if no difference is felt when you remove on then you know you then have mixed that lead up with another. make sure that you have well insulated pliers otherwise you will get quite a kick off the lead ! wont kill you though.96 Accord V6 running rough after cap %26amp; rotor change?...Timing issue?First off, just because an engine is running a little warm does not mean that it is over heated. If the temperature gage stayed within the operating range and never went into the red area, your engine was not over heated and no additional damage occurred.
I would suspect a bad spark plug from your description. When replacing a spark plug it is very easy to crack the porcelain insulator. Sometimes the crack may not even be noticeable. This would cause the plug to not fire correctly. Evidenced by only 1 spark plug misfiring.
If you had spark plug wires mixed up 2 or more cylinders would misfire. You can not have only 1 spark plug wire out of place on the distributor cap. Re-check your firing order on the distributor cap. If you find a mistake, replace the spark plugs on the cylinders effected.
