how to change a rotor: 2011

Monday, October 24, 2011

I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?

what should i do about that? and what product? and how to use it? and should i change my plugs and cap n rotor?I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?You don't put any product in besides a good quality oil. I know there will be some supposed mechanics that say use this or that but if you change the oil and filter at the recommended interval, you won't need any of these %26quot;canned fixes%26quot;. The cap and rotor should be changed when doing a tune-up.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?you can pu whatever Oil you want in it it wont fix the lifter... it just means you have lash in your valve train and could be fixed on most cars with a socket.. if its an overhead cam don't remove your valve cover but if its a ohv that is not positive stop you just twist the bolt on the top of the rocker arm until it stops ticking back it up until it ticks again than just tighten it up until it stops than one full turn to put a load on the lifter.... be care full not to go to tighten to far because you will end up just smashing your valve into the piston... that will be a worse problem than the ticking noiseI have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?While I'm not a proponent of the %26quot;miracle in a can%26quot; elixirs you can pour into your car, they do have their place. You can try one of the additives designed to quiet/clean lifters ..usually they are a concentrated blend of detergents that are normally found in motor oil. Another %26quot;fix%26quot; is to dump a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with your next oi change. Some %26quot;home remedies%26quot; are adding a quart of diesel fuel, or transmission fluid or using a crankcase flush at your next oil change.

Changing your plugs cap and rotor are typically tune-up items and, while good for your car, they will do nothing to quiet your noisy lifter.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?Lifters and rotors ain't even related. Put in some STP, and then change the oil in 1,000 or so and do it again. You will probably hear of 46579876 different additives which work well, and they probably all do.

It just needs a little extra lube.

dry hair

data into xsds

Brake problems on Pontiac G6?

Brake problems on Pontiac G6???

I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6???You are still under warranty. Pontiac will replace the complete brake assembly if they have to. Call the number, keep pushing them.

Even tho you exceeded the number of miles under your warranty, since the problem started when it was under warranty, you are still covered.

Try a different dealer, this one seems clueless.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???If the problem is like the one on my Malibu, go aftermarket. When new, my Malibu ate the first set of pads in 18k. I changed them w/lifetime aftermarket pads. By not using a factory pad, it solved the close tolerance problem, you appear to be experiencing. I'm at 80k w/no problems worth mentioning. I replaced the rotors aftermarket also on the one pad change I did do.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???The major mistake most consumers make is buying lifetime brake pads. Then they wonder why their rotors are eat-up all the time.

Best bet.. buy Bendix aftermarket rotors.. buy low cost pads.. replace pads as needed.

Some drivers are tough on brakes.. lay off the Mario Andretti driving skills.. if that is a problem.

Does this help any?Brake problems on Pontiac G6???It really sounds like thats too often to turn the rotors bec that's only 5,000 kms no need for turning rotors every 5,000 kms or around 3,000 miles thats in fact strange, unless there's a fault , if I'm right from what your saying the rotors keep getting grooves in them? If so the pads would need also to be replaced at the same exact time too. Yes if you feel something like your saying that means the pads aren't grabbing the rotors right or the rotors have rough or uneven surfaces. Indeed what you say about the calipers being faulty or acting up is what I'd say it is, other wise it has to be faulty new parts being installed.

Gosh if you knew how often I turn mine you'd really wonder why thier doing that. On any car I drive on avgerage I do my brakes every 3 to 5 yrs or every 50,000 to 70,000 miles or so.Although I do check them once a yr or so regularly.Keep in mind I'm very light on my brakes and most people have done thier brakes about 3 times or 5 times by the time I've do mine.

I think thier doing work just to get paid by the manufacture under warranty. or indeed theres some kind of faulty parts like the pads aren't right or theres infact dirt in the calipers causing them to grab unevenly. Although these mechanics should of caught this problem already.Keep in mind the rear braking system can cause very weird and even unthinkable problems in the front braking system if the rear brakes aren't right too.

One time I had brought my car in for a brake check to just be sure they were okay and knowing that my rear brake drums had a bit of a metal inner edge on them inside.The mechanic drove it and checked the brakes saying they were fine and asked my whyI brought my car even in to them.Then in another breathe he said in fact that my drums needed replacing bec of that edge I already knew of. He said I could just change the drums bec the brake shoes were fine. I was wondering if he was wrong bec from my knowledge once you change drums or turn them you automatically change the shoes.Plus to me the old shoes will end up screwing up the new drums but since I'm not a real mechanic and that guy has yrs of shop brake repair experience , I did as he said.

I was right never should of listened to him bec now my car's front brakes were being affected by the back brakes, thus my cars right front wheel brakes were grabbing wiredly and causing the a some kind of rubbing and now the wheel was pulling when braking. It ended up.I thought I better try sanding down the old drums with fine sandpaper and doing the same to the old shoes and simply putting the old drums back on.It ended up I was right the new drums , one of them now was damaged inside and the old drums and old shoes worked fine and the front brakes were prefect once again. So theres a perfect example how so called experts tell us things that we know ourselves does'nt make quite logical sense but bec thier supposely the experts we listen to them and end up having headaches.

That call thier mentioning is probaly some hot line customer service manufacture number . If this this something that keeps reoccurring due to the cars literally having brake system failers since new then they'd probaly agree to extend your warranty free of charge just for the brakes.

You know in your case I'd phone the head office and raise heck demanding they completely overhaul and check the front ends brakes and rears and fix the faults asap.If you get slack demand to talk to thier boss or supervisor etc.

Anyways best of luck and I highly doubt thier give you any slack bec you've the maintance records to prove it, plus the dealshership to back you up too. But I suggest you make this call asap.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???Are you one of those that let your foot rest on the brake pedal all the time you're driving? Just the weight of your foot will keep pressure on the brake pads and cause rotor overheating and excessive brake wear.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???call frog!! JD

How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?

Do I need to do anything special for the rotors? I have new spark plugs, and wanna change the oil tooHow to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?make sure you check to see that its not seized up. then pour a cap full of power steering fluid into each housing, bottom plugs, and let it sit for a few minutes. then fire it up, it will smoke like hell for a little bit but the power steering fluid helps make sure the apex seals dont damage the housing, the smoke will go away. then after a while make sure you do a compression test on it. it should have atleast 85psi on both rotors, if not then it will need to be rebuilt.How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?Get a new battery. change out the oil. just crank it up. make sure you don't flood the engine because the rotory engine is a ***** to restart after it's flooded.

Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?

I'm a single mother who's brakes just went. I don't have a lot of money and can't afford to take my car into a dealership. I'm VERY good with my hands and I don't mind getting dirty (please no smart comments). I've never dont any car repair but i have done a little research. My question is how hard will it be to change my brake pads and rotors by myself being that i've never done a car repair on my own. (I've built plenty of things around the house...) And, also any suggestions?Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?well ususally it is not too hard. depends on the vehicle. go to a local parts store and get yourelf a repair manual for your car. it will tell you step by step with pictures. usually its just a couple bolts you have to remove.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?those damn rusted nuts are hard to get off there... I've tried and I went to a garage 1 hour after. Can't take that damn top nut off.( the one holding the break pad cylinders casing ) Don't go to a dealership, any mexican can do that. Brakes would be easy to change if everything was like new... the rotors are the easy part.

try anyway, if all the nuts unscrew , you're good to go.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Changing the rotors can be a little difficult you may want someone for support but I can change break pads with my eyes closed, just find a good how to book or site.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Doing brakes is a little more difficult than say painting around the house. Your life as well as others is in jeapordy if done incorrectly. I would suggest not doing brake work if you've never worked on cars before. Try learning oil changes, airing your tires, changing your air filter etc.....I suggest if you have your own parts, find a shop that will install your parts and have them do the work. There wont be a warranty if you furnish the parts but the cost would be around 100 dollars. Either that or find a friend that has done some brake work and pay them.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?brakes are not difficult, at least I don't think so anyway, I just buy the parts and they have a repair manual at the auto parts store.

The name of the books you can get for your car is either Chilton, or Hayes, they are specific to your car, or similar models. Example; I have a Mercury Grand Marquis, and the book covers the Ford Crown Victoria which is the same thing.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Brakes are Very important, please only do them if you have a experienced friend, you'll need a friend to help you bleed the lines ( any air in the brake line will compress when you push the brake, instead of applying the pressure to the disk/drum)

Good LuckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?I certainly admire your determination and willingness to do your own brake work, but because you have admittedly never done any auto repairs - I would highly recommend that you don't start with a brake job. Perhaps a water pump or something similar - if you don't do it correctly, it still leaks - no big deal - but brakes? If you do this incorrectly, it could be a very big deal. Perhaps you know someone with a little experience and he or she could assist you? If not - bite the bullet and take it into a service shop.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?some tools and a c-clamp you can do it pretty quickly. Be careful it takes special tools to remove some calipers. AutoZone will tell you if you need specialty tools.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?youtube and expert village.com offer really good videos to tell you how to do these things . good luckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Although I would love to make some %26quot;smart%26quot; comments about your %26quot;getting dirty%26quot; remark, I'll refrain.

Changing brakepads and maybe rotors by yourself for the first time will be impossible. You will likely not do it right and cause an accident or wind up leaving your car in a condition where it cannot be brought to a mechanic.

What you need to do is have someone there with experience who has done this before.

Some cars have rotors that can be slapped on without even spinning a bolt, some require specialized tools.

You'll need the following for brake pads:

1. new brakepads

2. brake fluid - a bottle

3. a large C-clamp

4. appropriate drivers - philips head, flat head, sparx, etc

5. A good pair of pliers.

You will need to remember to collapse the caliper and bleed the brakes. Remember to loosen that nut looking thing on the caliper to allow brake fluid to seep before you colapse it.

Once you have done this a couple of times, this becomes old hat. It becomes easy and a great way to save money.

Best of luck with this, you can do it!

Finally, I'd also like to say that it is very, very sexy when a woman changes her own brakes. Especially if she's wearing blue denim overalls that are a couple of sizes too big and a skin tight white tank top.... so... what are you doing later? heheChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?there are alot of little details that go into a good brake job as apposed to one that will shake after few weeks of driving,supporting vehicle safely ,tools and chemicals make the first time expensive after that its not to bad .as an ex mechanis i have all the stuff so it takes me about an hour and 1/2 to do it in the driveway with out air tools, if you do it wrong best case is the car is stuck in your driveway worst is you crash.find someone whos done it and buy them some beer to sit and watch/advise you.its easier to talk them into watching then kneeling on the concrete for a couple of hoursChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just as long as you dont mind getting dirty you didnt say what kind of car it is but about the best advice I can give you is go to the parts store where you got your pads and get a repair manual for your car it has step by step instructions with pictures as far as your rotors go you probably wont need them unless they have really deep grooves in them i mean almost through to the other side deep I have seen it happen before where the pads were past the rivits but anyhow 9 times out of 10 you can just have them turned but its not a requirement and while your out you might want to get some hand cleaner your going to need it if you need any help feel free to contact me directChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?best solution. go to your local auto zone. and get some advice. you will need a big clamp, maybe about 12 - 16 inches. a Big one. for your brakes. then they will help you with the rotors. you may have to have them turned good idea to do that. auto zone guys will help you. or find a good friend to help you. its about 30 min a side for your brakes you can do it.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?EASY JOB. Get the wheels off, and unbolt the brake calipers from the spindle(if the bolts are tough get a can of PB blaster and spray'em up). you'll also wanna pick up a brake pad spreader(to push the pistons back in) then just replace the pads. once you get the calipers off the rotor will come right off, just put the new one on(make sure they're clean!) and slide the caliper w/new pads back over the rotor and bolt it back on. put the wheel back on and you're done!

BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID AND PUMP UP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO DRIVE. If they stay soft or spongy, you'll have to bleed them. you'll need help with that.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?it is a very easy job to do brake pads and rotors. all u have to do is pull the two slide bolts that hold that caliper on, and use a clamp to push the inside cylinder of the brake caliper in. then just pull of the rotor, put the new rotor on, slap the new pads in, put it back into place, and put the bolts back in. use the manual to verify the parts. it is a very very easy job and a good way to pick up mechanical knowledge.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Some cars require a puller of press to remove the rotors. But if you don't need this, it's easy. Just read a repair manual before you start to make sure you can do all the required work and have the proper tools on hand. It's frustrating to need to drive to the parts store when you've already taken your car apart!Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just chipping in another word of encouragement to try doing it yourself.

The sites listed above will help. This one explains it too.

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/a

If you have Anti-Lock Brakes you need to bleed the brakes just a little. If you're not sure if you have them look for an ABS light when you start your car. Bleeding brakes is easy but it really helps to have someone step on the brakes for you, by the way. The other way I've done it myself is to prop a stick between the brake pedal and the driver's seat and scoot the seat up until it depresses the pedal. Then you go out, loosen the valve a little to release the fluid until it doesn't shoot out very much anymore then quickly retighten it so no air gets in. Then scoot the seat back and start over again one more time if you want or do it for the other side.

Also, if you're really looking to save money don't buy the brake cleaner. Maybe it helps but I don't and all the brakes I've done have worked fine.

Consider checking to see if your local parts store can turn (polish/clean up) your rotors instead of buying new ones. It's about $7.50 vs about $40 for new.

How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?

I have changed the bakes, caliper, rubber hoses and rotors...Bled the brakes but for some reason the front passenger side gets stuck. And there is a nasty smell too. The brake pedal also hardens...But if I step on the brake hard it releases preassure and Im able to drive again. Could it be that I need to replace the master cylinder?How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?Sounds like a problem with the caliper to me.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?The smell could be the parking brake, and the hard pedal I cannot say. I would recommend going to a reliable mechanic and getting that checked out.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?It sounds as if the brake system is not releasing hydraulic pressure when you let off of the pedal. You need to check the clearance of the master cylinder push rod. It is difficult to do without a special tool but here is the gist of it. Take off the brake master cylinder. Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole in it where the push rod goes to the surface where it mounts on the brake booster. Measure the distance from the tip of the push rod to surface to the brake booster where the master cylinder goes. These should be the same or maybe the push rod length just a touch less. If the push rod length is greater than the depth of the hole it goes into the master cylinder is not allowed to return keeping the brakes on. If this distance checks out you probably have a problem with the master cylinder. If you install a new master cylinder be sure to check the push rod depth as described above. The depth can be adjusted by holding the splines on the push rod and turning the end in or out.

hold the tough drive freshly founder

fish

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?

Can some one give me the procedure for replacing the lower ball joints on a 99 gmc yukon 4wd. It has torsion bars, how do I loosen them and how much? Could I just keep a jack under the control arm instead? 聽The ball joints are the press in type and I have rented a ball joint press from the auto store. Please dont give me the %26quot;save my time and my knuckles and pay someone to do it%26quot; speech, I have all the time in the world, it's a second vehicle, and I'm willing to cut my knuckles to save $400.00. I have changed the breaks and rotors, shocks and the front drive shafts on this truck previously so I am capable of doing the job, I just need the procedure.

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars? Just keep a floor jack under the lower control arm, seperate the lower ball joint from the spindle, and use a ball joint press.Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?On flat ground measure your ground to frame distance first (write it down)

Then set the truck up securly on jack standS on it's Frame.

unscrew the tension bolts in the torsion bars untill the tension is relived compleatly.

remove the tension rods and your control arms.

I use 2 HD sockets and a mini sledge hammer to %26quot;press%26quot; my bushings in and out.

1 socket to catch or cup/lift the bushing , and 1 to drive it in or out with a mini sledge .

lightly Greease the contact surfaces B4 installing , it helps much more.

Once you get it back together , try to set your torsion bolts as close as you took them off at.

your final tension bolt adjustment (the measurement) will come when the truck is back setting on all 4 wheels.

If you don't have a book...............Spend $20 and get one first.

You will find a repair book is worth much more then $20

This is one %26quot;Tonka%26quot; of a repair proceedure though.

Not hard but big parts.

Safety is essential

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Mark the end of the torsion bar and the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar you can tighten them back to the same spot. Just use a paint stick or markerReplacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Not necessary to remove torsion bars. Just keep a jack under the control arm, then disconnect and press out the ball joint. And if you don't have a ball joint press, a big hammer and a couple of appropriately sized impact sockets will do the job just fine.

How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?

My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.

Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.

First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?

Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?

Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.

How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?

Hey folks,

I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...

The fact that it does not STOP.

I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.

When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...

The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.

First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.

If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).

As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:

What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).

Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).

Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.

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How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Maybe Brembo brake kitHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Try calling a local Porsche dealership or shop. And then ask them, (or see if you can get in contact with the original owner, as they may know what's wrong)How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?replace All Brake Parts Put Some High End **** In It

1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?

I changed the pads and rotors on my aurora...for a couple days after i changed these parts the abs and tractions lights came on and off. After about a week they stayed on. Mechanics seem to be baffled or are just being lazy and not helping me. I heard rust getting on the abs and tractions sensors may have caused it? Does anyone have any input for me on how this can be corrected?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?the traction is actually a by product of the ABS system not working when the ABS is fixed the traction will resolve....

the most likely cause is a common mistake....when the mechanic compresses the brake calipers on a ABS equipped car you should always open the brake fluid resevoir to release the pressure......If you leave it sealed it creates too much pressure and blows the valves in the ABS controller!!!!!1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?What do you mean the mechanics are being lazy, you said you changed your own brakes. Take it to a shop and have the codes read, there will be a charge for this. So you screw the brakes up and you want a shop to fix it over the phone with your questions?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?It could be that a wire broke when you changed the rotors %26amp; pads.It could be the sensor..this is why there is On-board diagonostics to diagnose the problem.It may just be the mechanics knew you wanted something for nothing, not lazy or baffled.They may have just been miffed.Regardless you can take your car to an auto-zone for a free computer check of the codes.Mind you codes need to be deciphered.

83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?

Ok for anyone who was following my mechanical escapades last night, I finally got it!! Everything kept coming up wrong cause I didn't understand what HEI was. I was starting at the 6:30 position and when husband woke up this morning I asked him what HEI was and he told me I instantly knew where I went wrong....start at 5:30. (Thank you Mickey!)

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c339/Gunny819/vehicles/HEIdistibutor_1.jpg

I ran out and jumped in and started changing things, husband looked at me like I lost my marbles, (ok that happened long ago). Then I told him to hit the key and Wall-A!

Turns out he had the #6 and the #8 mixed up at the beginning, but I'm looking too good right now so I leave that point out, lol. Then I insisted he tell me how to change the distributor cap and rotor and let me do it myself because yep, I was having fun now, lol. Seriously this is fun, at least it is on old vehicles where you have room that is!

Anyway sorry this isn't really a question, I just wanted to thank everyone that helped me!83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Yeah!!!

Good for you.83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Very good Grasshopper, heh heh...I see you found number one on the distributor, left side of the dwell adjust door...right where it suppose to be!!! You desrve a pat on the back awright, for correcting the problem. *Thumbs up*

can anybody advise me on

computer wont start up

How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?

I have an '05 Scion TC. I'm on Avid H4s that still have a good amount of tread left. The front pads and rotors have been replaced within the last 6 months. Basically, I took the car to a trusted mechanic here in town and he said the back brakes were at 15% and that the rotors should also be replaced as they're in very bad shape. My older brother talked me out of the work by saying that I'm just being ripped off and that back brakes aren't that important. Needless to say, the last thing I remember hearing are a grinding noise as I tried to brake my car as my Scion flew straight into the side out of the road towards the metallic barrier. FYI, I wasn't even going that fast when I applied the brakes and I applied them exactly how you are supposed to apply ABS brakes. So...could this have been avoided if I had simply changed the rear pads/rotors, or is this grinding sound on my brakes more likely due to an ABS problem or tires that are ill-equipped to drive in wet conditions?How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?grinding noises aren't normal and I would bet your rear brakes are into the rotors chewing them away, get your rear brakes checked now.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?Did you have the front pads changed? And did the mechanic remove the rear pads? Very rare that this can happen but I witnessed once a mechanic put the pads in the front on backwards leaving the non pad side to make contact with the rotor. This will prevent ANY type of braking from happening. If nothing had been changed, and it worked fine before this, I would say the rotors just got wet and basically lubricated the pads to the point they were ineffective.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?That grinding noise is probably metal on metal on those brakes that your intelligent brother said aren`t that important. Now go get the back brakes replaced and hope that the fronts are ok. Check with your brother, Maybe if you have new back brakes , maybe you won`t need the front ones. After all, the manufacturer only put 4 wheel disc brakes on a car to jack up the price. Safety has nothing to do with itHow come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?HI

Tell your older BROTHER to get lost.. if he don't care enough about you to tell you that back breaks aren't important... all cars a equipped with 4 WHEEL BREAKS for a reason.. to help the car stop swiftly and safely.. it well take a car twice as far to stop with only one set of breaks.

good luck

tim

How come my truck will not start? more inside...?

ok few months back my truck stopped working in the middle of the road..had gas, changed battery and cables-still didn't work..*brought to a mechanic and he changed the distributor cap and rotor etc i forget what all and that was a pretty penny*...

so now all of a sudden it will not start again, i do hear this clicking noise coming from this relay box...also my dad had asked some guys at work and they said it might be the starter solenoid-assuming it is this relay or starter solenoid, about how much does this cost to replace and could we change this or should a mechanic fix the problem?

--if we changed it, give the approx. cost--

--if a mechanic fixes the problem, approx. cost--

thanks

*since it was a few months back when i had brought to that one mechanic who charged me up the YEAA, should i bring it back to him and tell him to fix for free or someone elseHow come my truck will not start? more inside...?it could be dirty or loose battery terminals, a bad starter or solenoid.How come my truck will not start? more inside...?hi ok if your truck does not crank then the first place to start is at the battery connections. make sure they are clean and tight no black hard residue either. then if that does not work you can remove the battery and starter and have them checked at auto-zone that's free by the way. That's about where you should stop considering the rest of the checks can be hard for the inexperienced. and it helps when you ask a automotive question if you include the year, make, model, and if it is a automatic or standard. hope that helps.

Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?

I have a Chevy 383 stroker with a Edelbrock 650cfm thunder series carb. MSD HEI distributer running proper spark plugs. I tuned in the car and it ran wonderfully for about a half hour. Sounded great, heard the cam in it and everything. Took it out for a drive and came home and it didn't idle worth a ****. So I ended up trying to retune it and that didn't help any. I asked on here and someone said I fouled my plugs. So I got new spark plugs and that didn't help any. So I changed my distributer cap and rotor, that didn't help. I rebuilt the carb since I was hearing a hissing sound that was louder than it used to be, that didn't help.

Now smaller details.

I have a manual choke, it runs fine with the choke about half way out. Sounds good and everything, so that's what is making me think it's a vacuum leak now.

If I leave the choke half way out and I start to accelerate, the car starts running like **** and sputtering and has no *** to it, push the choke back in and it gets it all back and it's acting like a turbo or something kicking in. It's more like it's getting the proper amount of air.

Now, I can get the car to idle but the rpm is in the 1700 range, before I had it about 900 when it was running smooth before the spark plug change. And with the idle at 1700, it sounds like **** too until I start giving it some throttle.

I attempted to change the vacuum advance canister today and that didn't work out since I couldn't figure out how to get the canister out. I got the 2 screws out that hold it in, but the little lever part wouldn't push down far enough since it was hitting the base of the distributer, not sure if there is soemthing else I have to take off, I only removed the cap and rotor to get to it.

I checked all hoses, replaced the PCV hose and the PCV valve itself. The seal that the valve goes into isn't tight against the valve cover but the hissing sound is coming from the passenger side of the car, somewhere near the back maybe. I sprayed carb cleaner at every sealing surface back there to listen for a idle change and I never heard one. And... it seems that when I leave the choke in, the car sometimes will idle fine at a traffic light or something, but then suddenly it just takes a **** and almost dies on me, I have to smack the gas pedal and pull the choke out part way if the light decides to take a while.

Has a thumpr series cam, 479 intake, 465 exhaust. And most people ask what car it's in, it's in a 94 Camaro, so that's not gonna help much but I told you anyway. So I know the car idles because it has idled before, the car still hauls *** and can kick the **** out of cars on the highway like it always has been able to, but it just won't idle reliably.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?since it gets better with the choke active, id bet that you have a lean mixture issue. take both mixture screws and turn them all the way in, now back them out 2 and a half turns, see if that does it.

because you also mention a hissing, look EVERY where for a vacuum line that is off, or a cracked intake even. i hate looking for a vacuum leak, it can be any thing. you just might try the old trick, with it running, spray carb cleaner around any point where you have a gasket on the intake, if the rpm picks up, note the location and replace that gasket. it could be a warped manifold too.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?sounds like your low speed jet, could be cloggedor restrictedCar doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?ck basic compression , invest in a heat gun and see if all header tubes or manifold coming out of head are hot and same temp look for low temp you may have vacuum leak or other problem if temp is low , do with choke off and whatever is the lowest idle without dying .

How long to change brakes?

I bought a rotor and a set of brake pads for the front left wheel of a '94 Pathfinder 2WD and don't want to get ripped off by a mechanic. can anyone tell me about how long it should take for them to do that??How long to change brakes?I doubt he would do it in the first place with %26quot;your%26quot; parts.

1) He can't guaranty the quality of the parts you supplied.

2) If he ONLY replaces the parts you supplied, and ONLY replaced them without checking the remaining brake system he's an idiot.

3)Any mechanic that would do only what you wanted, I wouldn't trust to begin with.

But lets just say for the fun of it, he did decide to replace the parts you brought to him and only replaced them, then I'd have to say less than an hour.How long to change brakes?For those of you who said do it myself I would love to. However being confined to a wheelchair due to a recent accident and being a woman all off 100 pounds soaking wet i chose not to. And for the one who said any %26quot;bozo%26quot; can do it--you're the bozo!!

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How long to change brakes?why dont you just jack up the car and do it yourself

it aint very hard to put pads onHow long to change brakes?look it up in a chiltons manual that is where ive gotten help to do repairs i was unsure of or didnt know how to do beforehand.How long to change brakes?The change will take around 30 min. including bearing grease. Always change brakes in pairs.How long to change brakes?this should not take long 30 min if no problems 1 hour at the most i would change both rotors instead of just 1 and change both wheels brake pads if not the will wear wrong.How long to change brakes?30 minHow long to change brakes?Over the years, when my husband and I were still together, I helped him change the brakes to our vehicles a few times. Between the two of us it took less than 20 min to change the brakes and add just a little longer for the rotor. It took us about another 30 min to change the rotors but we did not have the proper tools. The added time was mostly spent finding tools. At a mechanic, who should have great tools, I don't expect that they would take more than an hour. If it's only one person doing the job, give them an extra 30 min or so. Hope I could help! :)How long to change brakes?a half hour at the most, why would you put brake pads on just 1 wheel?How long to change brakes?Just do it yourself. Any bozo can throw on a rotor and some brake pads. If you can change a flat tire, you can do this.

Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?

after they wear down, you can just bring them back in and get a new set for free if they dont show signs of wearing down incorrectly due to the rotors.. how good are the brakes and what are the pros and cons of buying those pads over toyota pads for the tacoma?Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?These pads may wear your rotors more but that's not a problem, you will probably want to buy new rotors anyway to remove any braking vibrations. I prefer getting new rotors on every other brake job.Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?lifetime warranty brakes are made of a much harder composition. This causes the brakes to wear less, but wears the heck out of your rotors/drums. So, which is better in your mind, to replace brake pads a few times over the lifetime of the vehicle, or to replace a much more expensive set of rotors/drums a few times? Me, I stay away from lifetime brakes.Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?The first time I got pads from Autozone I got the ones with the 1 year warranty. When those wore out, I went in and upgraded to the lifetime warranty pads. The one year pads wore out just a couple days before the warranty was up. Since I didn't want to risk missing out on free replacements I decided to upgrade. I also use Autozones lifetime warranty rotors. I haven't had any problems with the pads or rotors. The best part is I get free replacements.

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How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?

I am trying to change the Brake pads and rotors and an 05 Malibu maxx. Getting the tire and the brake calipers removed is the easy part. But now I'm having a hard time getting the rotor off. Should the rotor come off freely after removing the calipers? Or is there something else holding it on that I'm not seeing? I thought maybe it was just really rusted on so I held a small piece of wood to it and tried to tap it loose with a hammer but this thing will not budge. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?Get rid of the wood, smack the front surface of the rotor between the wheel studs hard, turn it, hit hard, keep doing that til the rotor breaks loose from the hub. You are wasting time using wood.How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?it probably uses the same design common on most hondas. the rotor is probably pressed on the hub. you will have to remove the whole hub assembly and remove the rotor using a press. and you will need to replace the wheel bearing as wellHow to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?it should just slide right off the hub after you remove the caliper. put a pry bar behind it and slap it good with a hammer but watch you don,t bend the backing plate.

I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?

I have a 1984 Chrysler Fifth ave, I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor last night and now the timing is offI need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?When you spend that much money to get you're car running better you should add about $20 dollars and buy an auto repair manual for that make and model. You'll find them at the parts store and they're invaluable. They will give you the firing order, the spark plug numbering sequence, the location of the number one wire on the distributor cap and all the other little details you need to hook everything up correctly and get the car running properly. I've been working on cars for 50+ years. Everything from tuneups to complete restorations and I wouldn't touch one without the manual. Good Luck.I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?you crossed the wires you meatball.. lol

what engine? 6 cyl or 8 cyl?

and.. i suggest you go to the local parts store and buy a book for maintenance repairs.

never do something you are not qualified for. now your 50 dollar tune up is going to cost you 300.00. and if you would have brought it to a qualified mechanic, it would have only been 150.00

lolI need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?your firing order should be in the casting of the intake manifold. #1 cylinder is drivers side front plug.

Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?

I mean can you change just the yolks or does the whole shaft have to be replace, and how hard is it to change? Seeing that it's does go through the rotor too?Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?No it is different. You have to take the steering knuckle off to get the axle out. Some axles you have to remove the front chunk to get the keepers off to pull the axle out. But if you are doing the u joints can do it in the truck with a ball joint presser tool. A big job to do.Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?Now you're mentioning two different things. The front drive shaft goes from the transfer case to the front differential, and has nothing to do with the brake rotors. The axles go thru the rotors.

How to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?

I just bought a 1990 ford f150 2 days ago. its in very nice condition, been running well. i bought it from a friend so i know its a great truck no doubt. heres the thing. yesterday i washed the truck exterior then some under the hood. after that i started it just fine and parked it. later on i drove it home for 20 miles. it did cut off one time and was a little hard to get back going. it felt like it had water in the cap and rotor. it finally started up and kept running. it was so cold out and i was ready to leave. this morning i started the truck up to let it run and warm the heater. after 10 minutes i heard it shut off. after i got my boots on and all ready to leave for work. i restarted the truck with a small hesitation. i drove it less than a 1/4 mile and it shut off and tried all day and still hasnt started.

i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..

How to make sure brake pads are properly installed, 2005 toyota corolla?

Im first time brake change on this car, im replacing the rotors and pads, but i see a clip that goes somehow on ine of the pads. Just want to make sure how to do this.How to make sure brake pads are properly installed, 2005 toyota corolla?the clip is likely the anti rattle clip or its a brake squeeler. the antirattle spring or clip helps stop chatter of the pads. it is often held in place by the pads. it is usually visible on top of the caliper. if its brake pads your doing be sure to clean and use the packet recomended for disc brake quiting as well. also even though new or turned clean the braking surfaces with brake clean on the rotors. there is often a film of protective oil placed on the surface to stop surface rust from forming durring shipping or storage.

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How to change front and back brake pads and rotors on a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0?

I need a link to a tutorial, or any inside knowledge that could be posted on a step by step process, hopefully with pictures on how to change these out. Everywhere I read is you need a special tool and that you should stay away from doing it yourself because of the difficulty, but i do not want to spend $800 on a brake job. So if anyone has ever done this please let me know what you recommend. I have a friend that is very mechanically inclined, and has changed brakes on every American made vehicle, so I am hoping this tutorial could help us both in installing these.How to change front and back brake pads and rotors on a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0?The front brakes are just like any other car. Two allen bolts holding the caliper on to the caliper bracket. Then two 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on.

The rear brakes will be difficult for you. You will need a special tool that screws the caliper piston back into the caliper. Besides that you need a thin 15mm wrench and a 13mm wrench to loosen the caliper. The bracket does not need to come off. You can sneak the rotor out.How to change front and back brake pads and rotors on a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0?I suggest a Robert Bentley Manual for your model.Especially if you're going to do more work on the car in the future. Maybe Amazon has them.

Its not at all difficult. Just some minor differences from USA cars. Years ago, my son and I changed the brakes on my 2000 GTI.

We didnt crash on the test drive, so I guess we did OK

However, I strongly recommend Genuine VW parts. There is a difference.

HELP ! I Think I am about to be screwed over into another used car trap!?

Ok so...my dealership is in Memphis, TN and I live about a hour away in Ark. So I have this 2000 Chevy Malibu that i got out of desperation bc i needed a car and it had 140K on it at the time(July 07'). I have had to have the rotors n pads changed 3 times in a 6 month period ,and within 4 months of purchase it had a blown head gasket(possibly could have been more)...had that fixed, and before that had to replace a fan belt, and here we are again a year later needing a new motor,

So I call and tell them, hey I want to be put in another car because i feel it isn't even worth replacing with 173k on it, its ridiculous. So I come to the lot thinking I'm going to get whatever i want, but instead, they tell me that since my payoff for the vehicle is to large, I am limited to 2 vehicles(a 00' Pontiac Van and a 02'Taurus) The van i saw, and the Taurus was in the shop getting serviced the same day i was at the lot, never saw it, never asked how many miles were on it because I was already pissed off and I was not interested in neither vehicle.

But here is the big catch, I am currently on an 18 month agreement with them where i keep it that long to be elgible for trade, but they are wanting me to renew it for 36 months and rollover the 6K I owe for the Malibu. I feel this is not fair and I don't feel right about it. I'm scared to sign these papers for something I really don't want, and I feel once they sell me a lemon, they will be more than happy to do it again. Suggestions ?HELP ! I Think I am about to be screwed over into another used car trap!?Pay off the heap, and then trade it in on a car that you want, and that isn't a Chevy. If I had a bad experience with a car maker/dealer, I wouldn't keep coming back for more punishment.HELP ! I Think I am about to be screwed over into another used car trap!?No, you need to find the vehicle that YOU want and then renegotiate the price to where it will fit better with what they are offering you now. So, say the two that they say that you can have are 4,000 go find a car that has a 7000 sticker on it and negotiate it down! Do not let them tell you.

Since they are offering you something to a certain extent they are saying that they had sold you crap. I would bring up gross misrepresentation. Ask them in detail about the car that you want them to replace your junker with, and watch for opinion statements. Those will not help you in small claims with misrepresentation. Ask them Q's where they have to state FACTS not opinions.

Be tough as nails and don't give an inch. They will hate you in the end (secretly, of course) but you will be more likely to be treated fairlyHELP ! I Think I am about to be screwed over into another used car trap!?No one is twisting your arm. If you feel it isn't a good deal, don't take it.

All cars need repairs from time to time, that's a given. I don't understand why the brakes would need replacing 3 times in a year, unless you are really really hard on them.

You might be better off fixing what you have and driving it until it's paid off instead of switching into perhaps another problem.

You owe a lot more than it's worth though, if you owe $6K. It's worth maybe $2,500. Remember, you don't get out of debt by going into more debt.

Good luck.

Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?

Okay so I am trying to figure out what is going wrong now.. I know the car is 15 yrs old so it's bound to have something go wrong but here recently everything is going wrong!

`Okay we got the brakes, rotors, timing belt changed, all new in February.. we get windshield wipers once a year.. Here recently it seems like everything is going wrong.. We had the muffler fixed in Feb also cause it was loud, they welded it then it came unwelded and went loud again, got it fixed then the car started squealing it needed some new belt.. then things seem ok ....

Then the car didn't start Monday morning so we took it to the mechanic shop and had them tell us what was wrong.. We were all sure it either jumped time or the distributor cap had something wrong with it... it turned out to be the distributor cap and something to do with the rotors (not sure how its spelled) like how they connect maybe to the distributor thing.. but anyway!! that got fixed, we got the car back wednesday afternoon, just drove it home.. the next morning...

We've got squealing again, think its the belt.. when we are driving it is making a squeaky kinda noise. This morning, the windshield wipers started going slower than normal, then just stopped working... head lights and interior lights are dim and when you turn the headlights on the radio shuts off. The windows are power windows and they aren't working.. We were just in the car last night about 6 and everything was working fine. It seems as if after the mechanic fixed stuff... things are just messing up.. of course I'd love to blame him!! Lol

Could you tell me what could be wrong? Someone said something about the alternator.. but I have no clue.. and give me an explanation on why you think it is whatever... and how much you think it could cost.. say under $200 or for sure over.. The heater also isn't working so we are just in some bad luck.. we're lookin to get it fixed now.. luckily we have parents with money that are willing to pay to get it fixed while we pay them back in payments.. otherwise we'd be screwed! We're getting a new vehicle (well used like a 2003) in March so things should be better then. The Honda just gets drove back and forth to and from my husbands work which is 20 miles one way.. we havent took long trips recently but used to all the time like 4 hours back and forth etc. He just goes to work in it and we go to the grocery store which is 5 minutes away.. sometimes we go to the shopping mall 15 minutes away.. so we don't really put a whole lot of wear and tear on it anymore.. we havent took any long trips in almost a year.. but when we did we had NO problems at all besides the normal getting tires and stuff ya know. Then we take it easy on the car and it messes up. I'm so stressed.. but anyways SO sorry for such a LONG post. Any help is greatly appreciated.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?sounds like your drive belt is either loose or missing, which may have caused the battery to go dead.

It's a cheap fix (about$20-30) plus the cost to recharge the battery (if necessary)Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?If the belt was squealing prior to the electrical problem it was probably the alternator belt. the alternator changes mechanical energy (on the pulley from the belt) into electrical energy (through copper spindles) if the belt is loose or burnt so that the alternator is not recharging your battery, you will either need a new belt or tighten it up. Good luck.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?Yeah it's the drive belt belt or the alternator. You could have also have some wires attatching and detatching themselves from the box under the dash. It may have been the mechanics fault. I am a mechanic and they teach us to leave things out so people like you will keep coming back. (no offense) You know with an older car like yours you may just need an engine overhaul but that would cost in upwards of 2-5 grand. I did the smae thing with my 1980 Toyota and it hasn't given me trouble yet, and it's been 4 years. So try anything like that. It works wonders.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?the car cant take it anymore, poor car.

it's wear and tear, check the alternator and alos chech the battery if there is corrosion on the battery wiring. you have put too much money on that car. you could also go to juck yard for parts.

hope that'll help you.

What is the most u would pay for this car?

okay so i have a 98 eclipse gs... i am gona post info about it and i want u guys to tell me wat is the most u would pay for this car.. lol please help

ok so its a 98 eclipse gs 4cyliner 2.0 liter.. but the engine has a hole in it and spits out all da oil so the car is not drivable unless engine is swapped. recently to this car i had changed to transmission along with clutch and flywheel which cost 1300. changed the brakes and rotors 200 bucks, changed power steering pump along with a tensioner pulley and cam shaft pulley. i have a 3 inch exhaust on it. a 100 dollar air intake new batter, its fully loaded, leather moonroof, everything power but the driver window wont open(off track had it done but fell again) the car rann greatt but then the engine suddenly got a hole in it and it sucks.. lol it would work perfect with a new engine.. also it has a body kit but the front is broken and needs replacement and back bumper needs allignment.. so if u were gona buy how much would u pay? thanksWhat is the most u would pay for this car?First I realy don't think the GS had a 2.0ltr. Only the GS-T and the GSX. The other models had a slightly bigger chrysler motor in it. At least that is what I thought. Second. you will not get much for it so I would register on a Eclipse forum and part out the car. People need lots of little things you have there and I think you will make more a little at a time.What is the most u would pay for this car?Pull it to the nearest metal recycler...they'll pay you more than I would charge you to tow it off your lot.What is the most u would pay for this car?it would only be worth about 200What is the most u would pay for this car?Well in the area I live on a car like that is considered a junk, or parts car. Local scrappers give $50 for something like that.

Infiniti help?

how hard is it to change infiniti I35 brake rotors and pads without messing up the abs brakes,I guess its the wear senors and where are they?The shops kill you on repairs and I can do it just never have done abs?I can find good rotors for 71.00 new and the shops charge over 100.00 each plus 189.00 an axle plus 100.00 for dealer pads or about 650.00 I think I can do it for much less.ThanksInfiniti help?you will need to remove the calipers from the caliper mounts(careful with the brake lines, don't drop the calipers), unbolt the rotors from the wheel hub. replace new rotors, install new pads, mount calipers. a little brake cleaner spray. torque all bolts to specified torque.Infiniti help?Yes you can do it for MUCHHHH less - repairs centers are a BUSINESS, not a service.

The sensors are not going to be harmed by you changing the brakes. Don't worry, as long as you don't drop the caliper and let it swing or hit the rotor, you'll be fine.Infiniti help?I'd suggest spending $19.95 on a Chilton's repair manual.

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I cut through one brake rotor...?

So yeah. The guy who had this car before me apparently replaced 3 out of 4 rotors when he got the brakes changed(don't ask me why, ive wondered about this for weeks). Anyway, for a while that one rear brake rotor would just make the grinding noise consistent with a warped rotor, and today well. today after a *clunk* my brakes came back up to standard pressure, and the noise ceased. I pulled over, had a look, and lo and behold... no more disc part of the rotor, just the hub. I suspect im in danger of losing fluid, but since the pads on there are fine theyre just squeezing a hunk of the rotor. whats the prognosis? it stops better than it did before, can I just cap the brake line till i have the extra funds to replace that rotor?(spare me the lecture about how i should have done it before, you don't know my financials. ps, its an uncommon luxury car so each rotor is over 100 USD just to buy).I cut through one brake rotor...?the caliper is bad thats why one wore out prematurely and youll need to fix your brake as this could become very dangerousI cut through one brake rotor...?well, you should be fine, but that is a common rotor price, and if you have a luxury car be prepared to pay luxury prices, also should be able to do the work your self, it is relatively simple. If you can change a tire you can change a rotor.I cut through one brake rotor...?if it is on a front wheel i would say to replace it. your car will jerk to the side that has the brake when you apply it. most of your breaking power comes from your front breaks too. i think capping the line would be fine til you get it fixed.I cut through one brake rotor...?No don't drive it.

You will cause more damage to the break system and just rack up a larger bill.

Park it until you can fix it.I cut through one brake rotor...?well if it is a new ish car you should be working on at least split diagonal break lines which means if you loose fluid from one wheel you will have at least 2 that do work for example: the front right goes but you still have your front left and back right working...either way if it isn't affecting your controls/handling on the road when braking or just driving then it should be fine to use....just make sure you can get it to a garage (or do it yourself) as soon as possible to be on the safe sideI cut through one brake rotor...?Okay, here is some advice for the future. If you can't afford expensive maintenance don't buy uncommon luxury cars. Two you should of fixed the problem when you heard it grinding. what probably happened was that the caliper on that rotor went bad and and started clamping down way to hard when you pushed the brakes. Thus, wearing out the brake pads and denigrating the rotor over time. That brake line can be disconnected and capped. Make sure the brakes are not engaged what so ever. Note make sure it doesn't engage when you pull the parking brake also. Most of the braking is done with your front brakes any ways, that is why your car leans forward when you hit the brakes. This is not an advise able fix and i strongly encourage you to fix the brake as soon as possible and sell the car. You need to buy some thing that you can afford to maintain. P.S. you do need to hear the lecture. suck it up, grow up and do better. Good Luck

97 Mustang Convertible?

I have a couple of questions...

1. My A/C blows cold but only blows out of the defrost. It's freakin hot down here in Houston so if anyone has any suggestions about it please tell me. I heard of a blend door that might be causing it if it is stuck, where is it and can I open it manually?

2. My auxillary and cig lighter don't work. A penny dropped down in it and it's been kaput ever since, it'd be nice to charge my cell phone when we have another Ike incident and don't have power for a week or so.

3. I have a grinding, clunking sound coming from my front wheels. I noticed when I changed my brakes my rotor seemed to be freely moving around in there, is it supposed to be tight in there or no? How can I fix this? Otherwise my brakes work, it just sounds like my front end is going to flop out and is quite annoying.97 Mustang Convertible?1.Probably a vacuum leak not letting the blend door operate properly. 2.Probably a blown fuse. 3.Probably a wheel bearing.97 Mustang Convertible?-For the aircon blowing out of the defrost- there are a few possible reasons, related to the vacuum as well as the blend door controller;

1. a vacuum switch (vacuum router valve) coming from the engine bay might have become clogged and needs to be replaced (inexpensive);

2. the vacuum collector tank located inside the dashboard may have cracked and can no longer maintain sufficient vacuum pressure to operate the blend doors and needs to be replaced. (moderately expensive);

3. a vacuum hose may have become dislodged/ cracked inside the engine bay or underneath the dashboard leading to the vacuum tank, leading to a loss in vacuum pressure;

4. the blend door operating piston mechanism (commonly located under the dashboard in the passenger side footwell), may have become stuck or the piston may have become worn leading to a vacuum leak.

-For the aux. and cig. lighter;

1. check the fuses under the drivers side panel- it will probably be a 10amp or 15 amp fuse that may have tripped as a result of the coin. (retrieve coin first)

2. if the fuses are ok, then it will most definitely be a wiring mistake or a dislodged wire.

-The brakes:

the rotor (big shiny steel disk) is supposed to rotate along with the wheel itself. no trouble there.

-Grinding, clunking sound(?!):

1. if the sound resembles a cracking/ crunching noise that occurs mainly during braking, accelerating, and or turning, then have the %26quot;ball-joints, steering knuckles, and control- arms%26quot; of the front suspension checked immediately (have you noticed that your vehicle wanders frequently from side to side, or that you have to keep adjusting the steering frequently to keep the car on course?)- then it is definitely that the front suspension requires urgent attention! (expensive repair service)

2. ball bearing failure could also be a distant cause although highly unlikely.

At any rate- you must have the front suspension checked out at an authorised ford service centre or independant as quickily as humanly possible- because if left unchecked, the front suspension could give way at speed which may result in a collision.

How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?

1.)Order 4 SUV tires and put on vehicle

2.) Do a brake job- probably rotors and pads- both axles

3.) Change the camshaft sensor...(causing check engine light)-Engine: 4.0 OHV

The vehicle is a 1999 ford explorer. How long would it take to get this done? On average..How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?one afternoon. mounting and balancing tires should only take a half hour, and thats if hes really slow. checking and servicing brakes: around an hour. and camshaft sensor change shouldnt take more than an hour either. so drop it off in the afternoon, and pick it up at closing time.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?All he has to do is goto and tire shop and buy them, or they will usually deliver within an hour.

The whole job would take about 2-3 hours if the tech is experienced.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?brake job 3-4 hours even 4 wheel drive

change tires 1 hr -tire shop or costco

change camshaft sensor 1hr

one days workHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?i am a mechanic at a tire shop.it should only take a shop 30 min to do tiers and usually they would have another mechanic do the brakes and the brakes should take about 45 min. and the sensor would only take 15 min. so about an hour at the most that's how we do it in our shopHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?It depends if you go somewhere with the tires already but it could take 3 days tops to get the tires in after ordering them. Brake job would take tops of 4-5 hours and sensor i am not sure but you shold go to

American Muffler

2471 Broad Ave

Memphis, TN 38112 Map

(901) 323-9511

or

American Muffler li

3766 Lamar Ave.

Memphis, TN 38118

(90)-362-8240

What would cause my car to lose power?

Why does my 87 caprice shut off when in park or when i shift to drive or reverse ?

i recently changed my distributor cap,rotor, wires, and plugs. i did not pay attention to the order of the wires. but i got the firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. on the dist cap my one position is the number two head on the left side of my distributor cap instead of the # 1 head on the left side of the distributor cap. my car fires up only when i turn the key without pressing the gas pedal, once the car is started i step on the gas to keep the engine running. the engine will run for a while, but sometimes shuts off if i dint hit the accelerator. also as soon as i shift to drive or reverse the car dies out! i can step on the accelerator then shift to drive or reverse and the car will fly in gear but will soon die out as if there is a lack of power or something. what causes this ? .

the car was shutting off before i changed anything with the ignition as if it was out of gas, a auto tech had tightened up my carburetor and it ran with out shutting off, this was a while ago, maybe a year ago, before any of this. the electric choke on the crab does not function. the are parts that are rusty and dint move. could my carb cause my car to shut off ? how do i tell if my carburetor is bad ?Why does my 87 caprice shut off when in park or when i shift to drive or reverse ?because it's 22 years oldWhy does my 87 caprice shut off when in park or when i shift to drive or reverse ?You probably need a new timing gear and chain set. You can tune this thing to where everything looks perfect, but there's a sore that won't heal, and that is a worn out timing gear and chain.

web proxy server

AJAX in .net

Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?

what

hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.

Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!

Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.

You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.

Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far

you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box

how to check brake pad

how to replace brake pads

how to bleed brakes

how to replace brake caliber video

easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place

What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?

Ok I already know that my 91 VW Jetta GL needs an exhaust manifold replaced, and I am wondering if that would cause it to lose power at 2500 rpms? It will be going just fine then if I let it get above or at 2500 rpms it just bogs down, and will not gain speed no matter how much gas I give it, the CEL comes on most times when this happens, but if I push the clutch in and rev it past 2500 to like 3000 rpms the light goes off, but still lacks power. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned intake, ran injector cleaner, changed fuel filter. I even replaced the catalytic converter, to no avail. I just bought car the car, and drove it 75 miles to get home, and this problem never arose, it did surge a little but never lost power like this. If any one can give me a few things to look into I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Good Jokes, Cars, and Great Sex all depend on Proper timing.

If you haven't timed your car then do so now.

To time the 91 you have to have the engine up to temp.

then using a timing light on number one plug.

unplug the CTS sensor (blue one on the side of the head upper water outlet flange) and rev the engie 3 times over 3000 rmp.

Holding it steady at 2250 RPM, then adjust the timing to 6degrees BTDC. (there is a timing hole in the transmission housing.

I would then replace the CTS sensor (cheap at Napa ) as that is known to cause issues. If you haven't replace the fuel filter now would be a good time to do it.

If you head a whine from the rear passenger side wheel arch when this happens, then you have a restriction in the fuel as in the in-tank fuel pump (also known as the fuel-transfer-pump) is going out or gone out, and causing a restriction to the main pump.

This year of jetta has 3 fuel pumps one in-tank, that feeds to the primary.

I would also highly suggest that you remove the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator (on the rear of the throttle body) and see if there is raw gas in it. That is gas that drips out of the hose, if there is then the Fuel pressure regulator is bad.

I would also strongly recommend that you replace all the vacuum hoses on the car as any slight leak causes them to act the ***.

Lastly, make sure that the big black hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is not wholed, and that it is tight to the throttle body and to the airbox.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?It's the manifold. Why did you throw parts at it, when you know it is the manifold? Also, you should have had the seller have the manifold repaired/replaced prior to purchase.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I'd take it to a mechanicWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?You already know it needs an exhaust manifold? How do you know this. I think you are mistaken or foolish. Have you had the CEL scanned for a code????? Yeah, there is a lot of data missing here. Still could be other stuff.

Timing, Mass Airflow Sensor, Badd parts in the ignition(out of the box or installed poorly) Plugged muffler from a FAILED catalytic converter.

Time to go to a shop. Pretty much any shop can work on these so skip the VW Dealer.

Jack, 2003 GLI, VW since 1959, ASE Cert Auto Tech since 1978What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I think it's fairly obvious why the previous owner sold it , the last time I heard of this , the cam belt had been replaced three teeth out from where it should have been, why do you think the exhaust manifold needs replacing? any problem with it would be very obviousWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Your VW is to old, visit mechanic.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Wow Justin!! Without more info about the motor, type of fuel injection, etc, I would not be able to be of much help.

However, the bogging down could be caused by a fuel restriction of sorts. In SA, we had the mk2 in 91 still and they came with motronic injection. Low fuel pressure compared to the older K jetronic system.

My suggestion would be to get it to a good honest mechanic and let him take a look. To many things have been replaced now and nothing has changed. The manifold won't affect it as drastically as this.

Standing does a fuel injection no good at all and they are difficult to understand if you are not experienced..

Good luck.

hedley.suckow@gmail.com

Why does my S-10 cut-out at high RPM's?

I have a 1997 S-10 4.3l, it starts to cut-out after around 3000rpm and I can't figure out why. I've change spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and had injectors cleaned still no better. It could be that I have a faulty Mallory ignition modular. But have no idea how to diagnos or repair aftermarket parts.Why does my S-10 cut-out at high RPM's?I don't know. I have had 2 4.3 liter engines. I didn't have that problem. Had that problem once with a V-6 olds. It was the coil pack. they have a bad design on the fuel pumps as well. Try to see if it only does it when you are low on gas. Like below a 1/4 tank. The fuel pumps are in the gas tank..at least on the 2 4.3 liters I owned..( Astro Van..and Blazer )and they are up a little high. The problem with that is that the fuel pump is actually cooled by being submerged in gas and when you get below 1/4 tank..guess what..fuel pump gets hot and eventually burns up. they cost 200 bux so don't run it below 1/4 tank.Why does my S-10 cut-out at high RPM's?Sounds like the ignition module. When the coil goes bad, it's can't charge/discharge fast enough to handle higher rpms.Why does my S-10 cut-out at high RPM's?Either it has a rev limitor (rare at 3000 rpm) or you need to go back to a stock delco ignition.

Maybe buy a Ford if this doesn't work out. haha..just kidding.

How to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?

How bad is a brake job (pads and rotors) on a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali... I got a quote for $1100 but I can buy the pads and rotors for $288 and do them myself, its been a few years since ive done brakes on my own and ive never done a dual piston setup, anything special? anyone memorize enough to give me a step by step? thanks!How to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?Nah nothing special, take the wheel off, take the caliper off, remove the old brake pads, remove the caliper braket.. now the hard part is to take the rotor off cuz it might be rusty and wont come off that easy... if there 2 screws then use an impact screw driver to get them off, if there are 2 holes, then you just need 2 get 2 bolts and screw them in to push the rotor out... then use a C-Clamp to push the pistons back in so that you can put it over the new pads, have funHow to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?way to high

type into search box

steps

how to check brake pads

how to check brake pads video

how to remove brake pads

how to remove brake pads video

how to replace brake pads

how to replace brake pads Yukon

how to bleed brakes

how to bleed brakes video

how to remove brake rotors

how to remove brake rotor video

how to remove brake rotor Yukon Denali

really not real hard to learn brakes

my wife does her own brake jobs

my 7 yrs old boy helps me do mine

most cars brake systems are about same in doing the job once you know basic steps

just nuts and bolts really

some brake caliber pistons are screw in type

many are not

and a tip once job is dont dont forget to pump brake peddle a few times to check

you can find most repairs online even video of repairs

how to name of what your looking for

how to check

how to remove\replace

how to install

how to repair

name of what your wanting

add video

works with everything not just cars

dual no differents if you have done any brake jobs at all you got the stepsHow to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?Buy a Haynes manual

But there is nothing different other than the double piston

How do change front brake pads?

93 F150 2 wheel drive, changing front brake pads, how do you remove the caliper, there are what looks like v shaped pins, don't see any bolts like a gm holding caliper on. Are these pins to be knowcked out or what is the procedure to replace the pds and rotors

ThanksHow do change front brake pads?Detailed instructions with pictures can be found here:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBrokerHow do change front brake pads?knock out the pins then reverse procedure with new pins when installing can re-use old pins but......why chance itHow do change front brake pads?You take a pair of pliers and squeeze the pin together, while tapping it out with a hammer. It might help to squirt a little WD on it first.How do change front brake pads?Knock out the 2 caliper pins, remove the caliper, push the piston back in, replace the brake pads, install the caliper, knock the 2 pins back in.How do change front brake pads?take a hammer and someting that you can push them through with. just bang them through with the hammer and a big flathead screwdriver is what i used on my 91 F150 and just wiggle off the caliper and remove.....make sure u open up the caliper with a big C Clamp so when the new pads are installed u can get it back over the rotor. when done just bang the clip back through the holes from the front back to where they sat originally

database

Will giving my 6 week old

How do change front brake pads?

94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark

After we have changed the above, now it will not even start!! It did start fine, and idled well. I bought it used, and it doesnt have an engine computer in it. How do i check the 4 sensors? What other ideas do you have?? A Nissan mechanic suggested changing a coil in the distributor,, we did, to the tune of $100+, then it wouldn't even start! The more we work on the worse it is getting. Help, please94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, sparkIf your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, sparkcheck compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.

Cost of changes all four brakes on isuzu trooper 1994?

I have this sinking feeling I paid to much to replace brakes on my Isuzu and that the may have damaged my car sensors in the processor. Prior to fixing brakes there was no anti lock light going off now there is. That the first sinking feeling

I much does it cost to change brakes plus the rotors

Does any know how much to get new anti lock pump installed in an Isuzu where can I find the part

I am so upset I went to have my brakes done and and now the anti lock light is . I dont trust people could he have take out the anti lock pump and replaced it with a faulty one?????????I mean how to you go in for one thing and the other thing just suddenly go when prior to going in no anti lock light was on

Hope someone has an answerCost of changes all four brakes on isuzu trooper 1994?The most probable cause is if they replaced the rotors they may have put the wrong rotors on. antilock brakes have to have special rotors, the other thing is they may have had to disconnect one of the wires on one of the wheels which would cause the light to come on, so don't panic take it back and tell them it was ok untill they worked on it, it is most likey a simple problem, wrong rotors or a unplugged antilock connector on a wheel most likely a simple mistake. and When the antilock brake light does come on then what happens it goes into limp in mode meaning the brakes lock up instead of just pulseing on and off 60 times a second. If the pedal feels solid and is about halfway up thebrakes are fine just a goof up if they are spongy they did not get it to bleedwhen they replaced the brakes in which case power bleeding will fix the problem. In any cace take it back and tell them they should make it good if they don't sue them in small claims court but most mechanics will want to make it right they can't survive for long screwing people over. As for price if you have to replace the rotor they cost about $60.00 each this is an average and brake pads can run $40.00 dollars for 2 year pads. So about $70.00 per wheel, if they need to have seals replaced and wheels repacked it can cost an addtional $20.00 per wheel, depending on your area you live in. don't stress go talk to them politely it is probly something simple and they won't charge you. If they give you static then take it to another shop and have it checked out and go to court if the new mechanic tells you thery screwed up. But most likely it's just a easy fix or a unplugged wheel sensor.Cost of changes all four brakes on isuzu trooper 1994?the time to remove the pump and bleed it is not worth the money they would get to rip you off. they would just say they needed to replace the muffler bearing or something like that. did you get it fixed?

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