I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?

what should i do about that? and what product? and how to use it? and should i change my plugs and cap n rotor?I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?You don't put any product in besides a good quality oil. I know there will be some supposed mechanics that say use this or that but if you change the oil and filter at the recommended interval, you won't need any of these %26quot;canned fixes%26quot;. The cap and rotor should be changed when doing a tune-up.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?you can pu whatever Oil you want in it it wont fix the lifter... it just means you have lash in your valve train and could be fixed on most cars with a socket.. if its an overhead cam don't remove your valve cover but if its a ohv that is not positive stop you just twist the bolt on the top of the rocker arm until it stops ticking back it up until it ticks again than just tighten it up until it stops than one full turn to put a load on the lifter.... be care full not to go to tighten to far because you will end up just smashing your valve into the piston... that will be a worse problem than the ticking noiseI have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?While I'm not a proponent of the %26quot;miracle in a can%26quot; elixirs you can pour into your car, they do have their place. You can try one of the additives designed to quiet/clean lifters ..usually they are a concentrated blend of detergents that are normally found in motor oil. Another %26quot;fix%26quot; is to dump a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with your next oi change. Some %26quot;home remedies%26quot; are adding a quart of diesel fuel, or transmission fluid or using a crankcase flush at your next oil change.



Changing your plugs cap and rotor are typically tune-up items and, while good for your car, they will do nothing to quiet your noisy lifter.I have a sticky lifter it'S ticking but not that bad.?Lifters and rotors ain't even related. Put in some STP, and then change the oil in 1,000 or so and do it again. You will probably hear of 46579876 different additives which work well, and they probably all do.



It just needs a little extra lube.

dry hair

data into xsds

Brake problems on Pontiac G6?

I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6?the pistons in the calipers are getting egg shaped as they come out of the caliper and do not retract properly.

Go to a Nappa store for a rebuild kit. They sell the best and most reliable parts for this kind of repair. I just cant remember what the outfit is but I think its Bendix,,but its a USA outfit.

Thats the simple answer. The worst case scenarion is the brake line system has been F------p from day one and the dealers were idiots.Brake problems on Pontiac G6?talk to mech where you work. they don't have an agenda. good luck. JD

Brake problems on Pontiac G6???

I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6???You are still under warranty. Pontiac will replace the complete brake assembly if they have to. Call the number, keep pushing them.



Even tho you exceeded the number of miles under your warranty, since the problem started when it was under warranty, you are still covered.



Try a different dealer, this one seems clueless.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???If the problem is like the one on my Malibu, go aftermarket. When new, my Malibu ate the first set of pads in 18k. I changed them w/lifetime aftermarket pads. By not using a factory pad, it solved the close tolerance problem, you appear to be experiencing. I'm at 80k w/no problems worth mentioning. I replaced the rotors aftermarket also on the one pad change I did do.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???The major mistake most consumers make is buying lifetime brake pads. Then they wonder why their rotors are eat-up all the time.



Best bet.. buy Bendix aftermarket rotors.. buy low cost pads.. replace pads as needed.



Some drivers are tough on brakes.. lay off the Mario Andretti driving skills.. if that is a problem.



Does this help any?Brake problems on Pontiac G6???It really sounds like thats too often to turn the rotors bec that's only 5,000 kms no need for turning rotors every 5,000 kms or around 3,000 miles thats in fact strange, unless there's a fault , if I'm right from what your saying the rotors keep getting grooves in them? If so the pads would need also to be replaced at the same exact time too. Yes if you feel something like your saying that means the pads aren't grabbing the rotors right or the rotors have rough or uneven surfaces. Indeed what you say about the calipers being faulty or acting up is what I'd say it is, other wise it has to be faulty new parts being installed.

Gosh if you knew how often I turn mine you'd really wonder why thier doing that. On any car I drive on avgerage I do my brakes every 3 to 5 yrs or every 50,000 to 70,000 miles or so.Although I do check them once a yr or so regularly.Keep in mind I'm very light on my brakes and most people have done thier brakes about 3 times or 5 times by the time I've do mine.

I think thier doing work just to get paid by the manufacture under warranty. or indeed theres some kind of faulty parts like the pads aren't right or theres infact dirt in the calipers causing them to grab unevenly. Although these mechanics should of caught this problem already.Keep in mind the rear braking system can cause very weird and even unthinkable problems in the front braking system if the rear brakes aren't right too.

One time I had brought my car in for a brake check to just be sure they were okay and knowing that my rear brake drums had a bit of a metal inner edge on them inside.The mechanic drove it and checked the brakes saying they were fine and asked my whyI brought my car even in to them.Then in another breathe he said in fact that my drums needed replacing bec of that edge I already knew of. He said I could just change the drums bec the brake shoes were fine. I was wondering if he was wrong bec from my knowledge once you change drums or turn them you automatically change the shoes.Plus to me the old shoes will end up screwing up the new drums but since I'm not a real mechanic and that guy has yrs of shop brake repair experience , I did as he said.

I was right never should of listened to him bec now my car's front brakes were being affected by the back brakes, thus my cars right front wheel brakes were grabbing wiredly and causing the a some kind of rubbing and now the wheel was pulling when braking. It ended up.I thought I better try sanding down the old drums with fine sandpaper and doing the same to the old shoes and simply putting the old drums back on.It ended up I was right the new drums , one of them now was damaged inside and the old drums and old shoes worked fine and the front brakes were prefect once again. So theres a perfect example how so called experts tell us things that we know ourselves does'nt make quite logical sense but bec thier supposely the experts we listen to them and end up having headaches.

That call thier mentioning is probaly some hot line customer service manufacture number . If this this something that keeps reoccurring due to the cars literally having brake system failers since new then they'd probaly agree to extend your warranty free of charge just for the brakes.

You know in your case I'd phone the head office and raise heck demanding they completely overhaul and check the front ends brakes and rears and fix the faults asap.If you get slack demand to talk to thier boss or supervisor etc.

Anyways best of luck and I highly doubt thier give you any slack bec you've the maintance records to prove it, plus the dealshership to back you up too. But I suggest you make this call asap.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???Are you one of those that let your foot rest on the brake pedal all the time you're driving? Just the weight of your foot will keep pressure on the brake pads and cause rotor overheating and excessive brake wear.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???call frog!! JD

How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?

Do I need to do anything special for the rotors? I have new spark plugs, and wanna change the oil tooHow to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?make sure you check to see that its not seized up. then pour a cap full of power steering fluid into each housing, bottom plugs, and let it sit for a few minutes. then fire it up, it will smoke like hell for a little bit but the power steering fluid helps make sure the apex seals dont damage the housing, the smoke will go away. then after a while make sure you do a compression test on it. it should have atleast 85psi on both rotors, if not then it will need to be rebuilt.How to start a Mazda RX7 motor that sat two years?Get a new battery. change out the oil. just crank it up. make sure you don't flood the engine because the rotory engine is a ***** to restart after it's flooded.

Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?

I'm a single mother who's brakes just went. I don't have a lot of money and can't afford to take my car into a dealership. I'm VERY good with my hands and I don't mind getting dirty (please no smart comments). I've never dont any car repair but i have done a little research. My question is how hard will it be to change my brake pads and rotors by myself being that i've never done a car repair on my own. (I've built plenty of things around the house...) And, also any suggestions?Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?well ususally it is not too hard. depends on the vehicle. go to a local parts store and get yourelf a repair manual for your car. it will tell you step by step with pictures. usually its just a couple bolts you have to remove.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?those damn rusted nuts are hard to get off there... I've tried and I went to a garage 1 hour after. Can't take that damn top nut off.( the one holding the break pad cylinders casing ) Don't go to a dealership, any mexican can do that. Brakes would be easy to change if everything was like new... the rotors are the easy part.



try anyway, if all the nuts unscrew , you're good to go.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Changing the rotors can be a little difficult you may want someone for support but I can change break pads with my eyes closed, just find a good how to book or site.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Doing brakes is a little more difficult than say painting around the house. Your life as well as others is in jeapordy if done incorrectly. I would suggest not doing brake work if you've never worked on cars before. Try learning oil changes, airing your tires, changing your air filter etc.....I suggest if you have your own parts, find a shop that will install your parts and have them do the work. There wont be a warranty if you furnish the parts but the cost would be around 100 dollars. Either that or find a friend that has done some brake work and pay them.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?brakes are not difficult, at least I don't think so anyway, I just buy the parts and they have a repair manual at the auto parts store.

The name of the books you can get for your car is either Chilton, or Hayes, they are specific to your car, or similar models. Example; I have a Mercury Grand Marquis, and the book covers the Ford Crown Victoria which is the same thing.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Brakes are Very important, please only do them if you have a experienced friend, you'll need a friend to help you bleed the lines ( any air in the brake line will compress when you push the brake, instead of applying the pressure to the disk/drum)

Good LuckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?I certainly admire your determination and willingness to do your own brake work, but because you have admittedly never done any auto repairs - I would highly recommend that you don't start with a brake job. Perhaps a water pump or something similar - if you don't do it correctly, it still leaks - no big deal - but brakes? If you do this incorrectly, it could be a very big deal. Perhaps you know someone with a little experience and he or she could assist you? If not - bite the bullet and take it into a service shop.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?some tools and a c-clamp you can do it pretty quickly. Be careful it takes special tools to remove some calipers. AutoZone will tell you if you need specialty tools.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?youtube and expert village.com offer really good videos to tell you how to do these things . good luckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Although I would love to make some %26quot;smart%26quot; comments about your %26quot;getting dirty%26quot; remark, I'll refrain.



Changing brakepads and maybe rotors by yourself for the first time will be impossible. You will likely not do it right and cause an accident or wind up leaving your car in a condition where it cannot be brought to a mechanic.



What you need to do is have someone there with experience who has done this before.



Some cars have rotors that can be slapped on without even spinning a bolt, some require specialized tools.



You'll need the following for brake pads:

1. new brakepads

2. brake fluid - a bottle

3. a large C-clamp

4. appropriate drivers - philips head, flat head, sparx, etc

5. A good pair of pliers.



You will need to remember to collapse the caliper and bleed the brakes. Remember to loosen that nut looking thing on the caliper to allow brake fluid to seep before you colapse it.



Once you have done this a couple of times, this becomes old hat. It becomes easy and a great way to save money.



Best of luck with this, you can do it!



Finally, I'd also like to say that it is very, very sexy when a woman changes her own brakes. Especially if she's wearing blue denim overalls that are a couple of sizes too big and a skin tight white tank top.... so... what are you doing later? heheChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?there are alot of little details that go into a good brake job as apposed to one that will shake after few weeks of driving,supporting vehicle safely ,tools and chemicals make the first time expensive after that its not to bad .as an ex mechanis i have all the stuff so it takes me about an hour and 1/2 to do it in the driveway with out air tools, if you do it wrong best case is the car is stuck in your driveway worst is you crash.find someone whos done it and buy them some beer to sit and watch/advise you.its easier to talk them into watching then kneeling on the concrete for a couple of hoursChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just as long as you dont mind getting dirty you didnt say what kind of car it is but about the best advice I can give you is go to the parts store where you got your pads and get a repair manual for your car it has step by step instructions with pictures as far as your rotors go you probably wont need them unless they have really deep grooves in them i mean almost through to the other side deep I have seen it happen before where the pads were past the rivits but anyhow 9 times out of 10 you can just have them turned but its not a requirement and while your out you might want to get some hand cleaner your going to need it if you need any help feel free to contact me directChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?best solution. go to your local auto zone. and get some advice. you will need a big clamp, maybe about 12 - 16 inches. a Big one. for your brakes. then they will help you with the rotors. you may have to have them turned good idea to do that. auto zone guys will help you. or find a good friend to help you. its about 30 min a side for your brakes you can do it.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?EASY JOB. Get the wheels off, and unbolt the brake calipers from the spindle(if the bolts are tough get a can of PB blaster and spray'em up). you'll also wanna pick up a brake pad spreader(to push the pistons back in) then just replace the pads. once you get the calipers off the rotor will come right off, just put the new one on(make sure they're clean!) and slide the caliper w/new pads back over the rotor and bolt it back on. put the wheel back on and you're done!



BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID AND PUMP UP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO DRIVE. If they stay soft or spongy, you'll have to bleed them. you'll need help with that.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?it is a very easy job to do brake pads and rotors. all u have to do is pull the two slide bolts that hold that caliper on, and use a clamp to push the inside cylinder of the brake caliper in. then just pull of the rotor, put the new rotor on, slap the new pads in, put it back into place, and put the bolts back in. use the manual to verify the parts. it is a very very easy job and a good way to pick up mechanical knowledge.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Some cars require a puller of press to remove the rotors. But if you don't need this, it's easy. Just read a repair manual before you start to make sure you can do all the required work and have the proper tools on hand. It's frustrating to need to drive to the parts store when you've already taken your car apart!Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?Just chipping in another word of encouragement to try doing it yourself.



The sites listed above will help. This one explains it too.

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/a



If you have Anti-Lock Brakes you need to bleed the brakes just a little. If you're not sure if you have them look for an ABS light when you start your car. Bleeding brakes is easy but it really helps to have someone step on the brakes for you, by the way. The other way I've done it myself is to prop a stick between the brake pedal and the driver's seat and scoot the seat up until it depresses the pedal. Then you go out, loosen the valve a little to release the fluid until it doesn't shoot out very much anymore then quickly retighten it so no air gets in. Then scoot the seat back and start over again one more time if you want or do it for the other side.



Also, if you're really looking to save money don't buy the brake cleaner. Maybe it helps but I don't and all the brakes I've done have worked fine.



Consider checking to see if your local parts store can turn (polish/clean up) your rotors instead of buying new ones. It's about $7.50 vs about $40 for new.

How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?

I have changed the bakes, caliper, rubber hoses and rotors...Bled the brakes but for some reason the front passenger side gets stuck. And there is a nasty smell too. The brake pedal also hardens...But if I step on the brake hard it releases preassure and Im able to drive again. Could it be that I need to replace the master cylinder?How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?Sounds like a problem with the caliper to me.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?The smell could be the parking brake, and the hard pedal I cannot say. I would recommend going to a reliable mechanic and getting that checked out.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?It sounds as if the brake system is not releasing hydraulic pressure when you let off of the pedal. You need to check the clearance of the master cylinder push rod. It is difficult to do without a special tool but here is the gist of it. Take off the brake master cylinder. Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole in it where the push rod goes to the surface where it mounts on the brake booster. Measure the distance from the tip of the push rod to surface to the brake booster where the master cylinder goes. These should be the same or maybe the push rod length just a touch less. If the push rod length is greater than the depth of the hole it goes into the master cylinder is not allowed to return keeping the brakes on. If this distance checks out you probably have a problem with the master cylinder. If you install a new master cylinder be sure to check the push rod depth as described above. The depth can be adjusted by holding the splines on the push rod and turning the end in or out.

hold the tough drive freshly founder

fish

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?

Can some one give me the procedure for replacing the lower ball joints on a 99 gmc yukon 4wd. It has torsion bars, how do I loosen them and how much? Could I just keep a jack under the control arm instead? 聽The ball joints are the press in type and I have rented a ball joint press from the auto store. Please dont give me the %26quot;save my time and my knuckles and pay someone to do it%26quot; speech, I have all the time in the world, it's a second vehicle, and I'm willing to cut my knuckles to save $400.00. I have changed the breaks and rotors, shocks and the front drive shafts on this truck previously so I am capable of doing the job, I just need the procedure.

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars? Just keep a floor jack under the lower control arm, seperate the lower ball joint from the spindle, and use a ball joint press.Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?On flat ground measure your ground to frame distance first (write it down)



Then set the truck up securly on jack standS on it's Frame.





unscrew the tension bolts in the torsion bars untill the tension is relived compleatly.



remove the tension rods and your control arms.



I use 2 HD sockets and a mini sledge hammer to %26quot;press%26quot; my bushings in and out.



1 socket to catch or cup/lift the bushing , and 1 to drive it in or out with a mini sledge .



lightly Greease the contact surfaces B4 installing , it helps much more.



Once you get it back together , try to set your torsion bolts as close as you took them off at.



your final tension bolt adjustment (the measurement) will come when the truck is back setting on all 4 wheels.



If you don't have a book...............Spend $20 and get one first.

You will find a repair book is worth much more then $20



This is one %26quot;Tonka%26quot; of a repair proceedure though.

Not hard but big parts.



Safety is essential

Replacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Mark the end of the torsion bar and the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar you can tighten them back to the same spot. Just use a paint stick or markerReplacing ball joints, how do you remove torsion bars?Not necessary to remove torsion bars. Just keep a jack under the control arm, then disconnect and press out the ball joint. And if you don't have a ball joint press, a big hammer and a couple of appropriately sized impact sockets will do the job just fine.

How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?

My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.

Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.

First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?

Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?

Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.

How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?

Hey folks,



I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...



The fact that it does not STOP.



I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.



When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...



The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.



First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.



If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).



As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:



What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).



Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).



Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.

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How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Maybe Brembo brake kitHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Try calling a local Porsche dealership or shop. And then ask them, (or see if you can get in contact with the original owner, as they may know what's wrong)How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?replace All Brake Parts Put Some High End **** In It

1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?

I changed the pads and rotors on my aurora...for a couple days after i changed these parts the abs and tractions lights came on and off. After about a week they stayed on. Mechanics seem to be baffled or are just being lazy and not helping me. I heard rust getting on the abs and tractions sensors may have caused it? Does anyone have any input for me on how this can be corrected?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?the traction is actually a by product of the ABS system not working when the ABS is fixed the traction will resolve....



the most likely cause is a common mistake....when the mechanic compresses the brake calipers on a ABS equipped car you should always open the brake fluid resevoir to release the pressure......If you leave it sealed it creates too much pressure and blows the valves in the ABS controller!!!!!1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?What do you mean the mechanics are being lazy, you said you changed your own brakes. Take it to a shop and have the codes read, there will be a charge for this. So you screw the brakes up and you want a shop to fix it over the phone with your questions?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?It could be that a wire broke when you changed the rotors %26amp; pads.It could be the sensor..this is why there is On-board diagonostics to diagnose the problem.It may just be the mechanics knew you wanted something for nothing, not lazy or baffled.They may have just been miffed.Regardless you can take your car to an auto-zone for a free computer check of the codes.Mind you codes need to be deciphered.

83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?

Ok for anyone who was following my mechanical escapades last night, I finally got it!! Everything kept coming up wrong cause I didn't understand what HEI was. I was starting at the 6:30 position and when husband woke up this morning I asked him what HEI was and he told me I instantly knew where I went wrong....start at 5:30. (Thank you Mickey!)



http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c339/Gunny819/vehicles/HEIdistibutor_1.jpg



I ran out and jumped in and started changing things, husband looked at me like I lost my marbles, (ok that happened long ago). Then I told him to hit the key and Wall-A!



Turns out he had the #6 and the #8 mixed up at the beginning, but I'm looking too good right now so I leave that point out, lol. Then I insisted he tell me how to change the distributor cap and rotor and let me do it myself because yep, I was having fun now, lol. Seriously this is fun, at least it is on old vehicles where you have room that is!



Anyway sorry this isn't really a question, I just wanted to thank everyone that helped me!83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Yeah!!!

Good for you.83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Very good Grasshopper, heh heh...I see you found number one on the distributor, left side of the dwell adjust door...right where it suppose to be!!! You desrve a pat on the back awright, for correcting the problem. *Thumbs up*

can anybody advise me on

computer wont start up

How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?

I have an '05 Scion TC. I'm on Avid H4s that still have a good amount of tread left. The front pads and rotors have been replaced within the last 6 months. Basically, I took the car to a trusted mechanic here in town and he said the back brakes were at 15% and that the rotors should also be replaced as they're in very bad shape. My older brother talked me out of the work by saying that I'm just being ripped off and that back brakes aren't that important. Needless to say, the last thing I remember hearing are a grinding noise as I tried to brake my car as my Scion flew straight into the side out of the road towards the metallic barrier. FYI, I wasn't even going that fast when I applied the brakes and I applied them exactly how you are supposed to apply ABS brakes. So...could this have been avoided if I had simply changed the rear pads/rotors, or is this grinding sound on my brakes more likely due to an ABS problem or tires that are ill-equipped to drive in wet conditions?How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?grinding noises aren't normal and I would bet your rear brakes are into the rotors chewing them away, get your rear brakes checked now.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?Did you have the front pads changed? And did the mechanic remove the rear pads? Very rare that this can happen but I witnessed once a mechanic put the pads in the front on backwards leaving the non pad side to make contact with the rotor. This will prevent ANY type of braking from happening. If nothing had been changed, and it worked fine before this, I would say the rotors just got wet and basically lubricated the pads to the point they were ineffective.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?That grinding noise is probably metal on metal on those brakes that your intelligent brother said aren`t that important. Now go get the back brakes replaced and hope that the fronts are ok. Check with your brother, Maybe if you have new back brakes , maybe you won`t need the front ones. After all, the manufacturer only put 4 wheel disc brakes on a car to jack up the price. Safety has nothing to do with itHow come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?HI

Tell your older BROTHER to get lost.. if he don't care enough about you to tell you that back breaks aren't important... all cars a equipped with 4 WHEEL BREAKS for a reason.. to help the car stop swiftly and safely.. it well take a car twice as far to stop with only one set of breaks.

good luck

tim

How come my truck will not start? more inside...?

ok few months back my truck stopped working in the middle of the road..had gas, changed battery and cables-still didn't work..*brought to a mechanic and he changed the distributor cap and rotor etc i forget what all and that was a pretty penny*...







so now all of a sudden it will not start again, i do hear this clicking noise coming from this relay box...also my dad had asked some guys at work and they said it might be the starter solenoid-assuming it is this relay or starter solenoid, about how much does this cost to replace and could we change this or should a mechanic fix the problem?





--if we changed it, give the approx. cost--

--if a mechanic fixes the problem, approx. cost--





thanks







*since it was a few months back when i had brought to that one mechanic who charged me up the YEAA, should i bring it back to him and tell him to fix for free or someone elseHow come my truck will not start? more inside...?it could be dirty or loose battery terminals, a bad starter or solenoid.How come my truck will not start? more inside...?hi ok if your truck does not crank then the first place to start is at the battery connections. make sure they are clean and tight no black hard residue either. then if that does not work you can remove the battery and starter and have them checked at auto-zone that's free by the way. That's about where you should stop considering the rest of the checks can be hard for the inexperienced. and it helps when you ask a automotive question if you include the year, make, model, and if it is a automatic or standard. hope that helps.

Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?

I have a Chevy 383 stroker with a Edelbrock 650cfm thunder series carb. MSD HEI distributer running proper spark plugs. I tuned in the car and it ran wonderfully for about a half hour. Sounded great, heard the cam in it and everything. Took it out for a drive and came home and it didn't idle worth a ****. So I ended up trying to retune it and that didn't help any. I asked on here and someone said I fouled my plugs. So I got new spark plugs and that didn't help any. So I changed my distributer cap and rotor, that didn't help. I rebuilt the carb since I was hearing a hissing sound that was louder than it used to be, that didn't help.



Now smaller details.



I have a manual choke, it runs fine with the choke about half way out. Sounds good and everything, so that's what is making me think it's a vacuum leak now.

If I leave the choke half way out and I start to accelerate, the car starts running like **** and sputtering and has no *** to it, push the choke back in and it gets it all back and it's acting like a turbo or something kicking in. It's more like it's getting the proper amount of air.

Now, I can get the car to idle but the rpm is in the 1700 range, before I had it about 900 when it was running smooth before the spark plug change. And with the idle at 1700, it sounds like **** too until I start giving it some throttle.



I attempted to change the vacuum advance canister today and that didn't work out since I couldn't figure out how to get the canister out. I got the 2 screws out that hold it in, but the little lever part wouldn't push down far enough since it was hitting the base of the distributer, not sure if there is soemthing else I have to take off, I only removed the cap and rotor to get to it.



I checked all hoses, replaced the PCV hose and the PCV valve itself. The seal that the valve goes into isn't tight against the valve cover but the hissing sound is coming from the passenger side of the car, somewhere near the back maybe. I sprayed carb cleaner at every sealing surface back there to listen for a idle change and I never heard one. And... it seems that when I leave the choke in, the car sometimes will idle fine at a traffic light or something, but then suddenly it just takes a **** and almost dies on me, I have to smack the gas pedal and pull the choke out part way if the light decides to take a while.



Has a thumpr series cam, 479 intake, 465 exhaust. And most people ask what car it's in, it's in a 94 Camaro, so that's not gonna help much but I told you anyway. So I know the car idles because it has idled before, the car still hauls *** and can kick the **** out of cars on the highway like it always has been able to, but it just won't idle reliably.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?since it gets better with the choke active, id bet that you have a lean mixture issue. take both mixture screws and turn them all the way in, now back them out 2 and a half turns, see if that does it.

because you also mention a hissing, look EVERY where for a vacuum line that is off, or a cracked intake even. i hate looking for a vacuum leak, it can be any thing. you just might try the old trick, with it running, spray carb cleaner around any point where you have a gasket on the intake, if the rpm picks up, note the location and replace that gasket. it could be a warped manifold too.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?sounds like your low speed jet, could be cloggedor restrictedCar doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?ck basic compression , invest in a heat gun and see if all header tubes or manifold coming out of head are hot and same temp look for low temp you may have vacuum leak or other problem if temp is low , do with choke off and whatever is the lowest idle without dying .

How long to change brakes?

I bought a rotor and a set of brake pads for the front left wheel of a '94 Pathfinder 2WD and don't want to get ripped off by a mechanic. can anyone tell me about how long it should take for them to do that??How long to change brakes?I doubt he would do it in the first place with %26quot;your%26quot; parts.



1) He can't guaranty the quality of the parts you supplied.

2) If he ONLY replaces the parts you supplied, and ONLY replaced them without checking the remaining brake system he's an idiot.

3)Any mechanic that would do only what you wanted, I wouldn't trust to begin with.



But lets just say for the fun of it, he did decide to replace the parts you brought to him and only replaced them, then I'd have to say less than an hour.How long to change brakes?For those of you who said do it myself I would love to. However being confined to a wheelchair due to a recent accident and being a woman all off 100 pounds soaking wet i chose not to. And for the one who said any %26quot;bozo%26quot; can do it--you're the bozo!!

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How long to change brakes?why dont you just jack up the car and do it yourself



it aint very hard to put pads onHow long to change brakes?look it up in a chiltons manual that is where ive gotten help to do repairs i was unsure of or didnt know how to do beforehand.How long to change brakes?The change will take around 30 min. including bearing grease. Always change brakes in pairs.How long to change brakes?this should not take long 30 min if no problems 1 hour at the most i would change both rotors instead of just 1 and change both wheels brake pads if not the will wear wrong.How long to change brakes?30 minHow long to change brakes?Over the years, when my husband and I were still together, I helped him change the brakes to our vehicles a few times. Between the two of us it took less than 20 min to change the brakes and add just a little longer for the rotor. It took us about another 30 min to change the rotors but we did not have the proper tools. The added time was mostly spent finding tools. At a mechanic, who should have great tools, I don't expect that they would take more than an hour. If it's only one person doing the job, give them an extra 30 min or so. Hope I could help! :)How long to change brakes?a half hour at the most, why would you put brake pads on just 1 wheel?How long to change brakes?Just do it yourself. Any bozo can throw on a rotor and some brake pads. If you can change a flat tire, you can do this.

Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?

after they wear down, you can just bring them back in and get a new set for free if they dont show signs of wearing down incorrectly due to the rotors.. how good are the brakes and what are the pros and cons of buying those pads over toyota pads for the tacoma?Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?These pads may wear your rotors more but that's not a problem, you will probably want to buy new rotors anyway to remove any braking vibrations. I prefer getting new rotors on every other brake job.Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?lifetime warranty brakes are made of a much harder composition. This causes the brakes to wear less, but wears the heck out of your rotors/drums. So, which is better in your mind, to replace brake pads a few times over the lifetime of the vehicle, or to replace a much more expensive set of rotors/drums a few times? Me, I stay away from lifetime brakes.Does anyone buy autozone's lifetime warranty brakes and change them urselves?The first time I got pads from Autozone I got the ones with the 1 year warranty. When those wore out, I went in and upgraded to the lifetime warranty pads. The one year pads wore out just a couple days before the warranty was up. Since I didn't want to risk missing out on free replacements I decided to upgrade. I also use Autozones lifetime warranty rotors. I haven't had any problems with the pads or rotors. The best part is I get free replacements.

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How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?

I am trying to change the Brake pads and rotors and an 05 Malibu maxx. Getting the tire and the brake calipers removed is the easy part. But now I'm having a hard time getting the rotor off. Should the rotor come off freely after removing the calipers? Or is there something else holding it on that I'm not seeing? I thought maybe it was just really rusted on so I held a small piece of wood to it and tried to tap it loose with a hammer but this thing will not budge. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?Get rid of the wood, smack the front surface of the rotor between the wheel studs hard, turn it, hit hard, keep doing that til the rotor breaks loose from the hub. You are wasting time using wood.How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?it probably uses the same design common on most hondas. the rotor is probably pressed on the hub. you will have to remove the whole hub assembly and remove the rotor using a press. and you will need to replace the wheel bearing as wellHow to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?it should just slide right off the hub after you remove the caliper. put a pry bar behind it and slap it good with a hammer but watch you don,t bend the backing plate.

I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?

I have a 1984 Chrysler Fifth ave, I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor last night and now the timing is offI need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?When you spend that much money to get you're car running better you should add about $20 dollars and buy an auto repair manual for that make and model. You'll find them at the parts store and they're invaluable. They will give you the firing order, the spark plug numbering sequence, the location of the number one wire on the distributor cap and all the other little details you need to hook everything up correctly and get the car running properly. I've been working on cars for 50+ years. Everything from tuneups to complete restorations and I wouldn't touch one without the manual. Good Luck.I need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?you crossed the wires you meatball.. lol

what engine? 6 cyl or 8 cyl?

and.. i suggest you go to the local parts store and buy a book for maintenance repairs.

never do something you are not qualified for. now your 50 dollar tune up is going to cost you 300.00. and if you would have brought it to a qualified mechanic, it would have only been 150.00

lolI need the routing for the plugs and wires to the distributor cap, also how to fix the timing on a 84 5th ave?your firing order should be in the casting of the intake manifold. #1 cylinder is drivers side front plug.

Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?

I mean can you change just the yolks or does the whole shaft have to be replace, and how hard is it to change? Seeing that it's does go through the rotor too?Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?No it is different. You have to take the steering knuckle off to get the axle out. Some axles you have to remove the front chunk to get the keepers off to pull the axle out. But if you are doing the u joints can do it in the truck with a ball joint presser tool. A big job to do.Changing the front Drive shaft on a 1995 4x4 Ford Ranger is it the same as a normal rear drive shaft?Now you're mentioning two different things. The front drive shaft goes from the transfer case to the front differential, and has nothing to do with the brake rotors. The axles go thru the rotors.

How to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?

I just bought a 1990 ford f150 2 days ago. its in very nice condition, been running well. i bought it from a friend so i know its a great truck no doubt. heres the thing. yesterday i washed the truck exterior then some under the hood. after that i started it just fine and parked it. later on i drove it home for 20 miles. it did cut off one time and was a little hard to get back going. it felt like it had water in the cap and rotor. it finally started up and kept running. it was so cold out and i was ready to leave. this morning i started the truck up to let it run and warm the heater. after 10 minutes i heard it shut off. after i got my boots on and all ready to leave for work. i restarted the truck with a small hesitation. i drove it less than a 1/4 mile and it shut off and tried all day and still hasnt started.

i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..