My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.
Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.
First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?
Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?
Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.
Monday, October 24, 2011
How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?
Hey folks,
I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...
The fact that it does not STOP.
I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.
When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...
The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.
First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.
If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).
As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:
What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).
Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).
Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.
I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...
The fact that it does not STOP.
I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.
When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...
The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.
First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.
If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).
As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:
What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).
Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).
Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.
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How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Maybe Brembo brake kitHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Try calling a local Porsche dealership or shop. And then ask them, (or see if you can get in contact with the original owner, as they may know what's wrong)How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?replace All Brake Parts Put Some High End **** In It
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?
I changed the pads and rotors on my aurora...for a couple days after i changed these parts the abs and tractions lights came on and off. After about a week they stayed on. Mechanics seem to be baffled or are just being lazy and not helping me. I heard rust getting on the abs and tractions sensors may have caused it? Does anyone have any input for me on how this can be corrected?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?the traction is actually a by product of the ABS system not working when the ABS is fixed the traction will resolve....
the most likely cause is a common mistake....when the mechanic compresses the brake calipers on a ABS equipped car you should always open the brake fluid resevoir to release the pressure......If you leave it sealed it creates too much pressure and blows the valves in the ABS controller!!!!!1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?What do you mean the mechanics are being lazy, you said you changed your own brakes. Take it to a shop and have the codes read, there will be a charge for this. So you screw the brakes up and you want a shop to fix it over the phone with your questions?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?It could be that a wire broke when you changed the rotors %26amp; pads.It could be the sensor..this is why there is On-board diagonostics to diagnose the problem.It may just be the mechanics knew you wanted something for nothing, not lazy or baffled.They may have just been miffed.Regardless you can take your car to an auto-zone for a free computer check of the codes.Mind you codes need to be deciphered.
the most likely cause is a common mistake....when the mechanic compresses the brake calipers on a ABS equipped car you should always open the brake fluid resevoir to release the pressure......If you leave it sealed it creates too much pressure and blows the valves in the ABS controller!!!!!1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?What do you mean the mechanics are being lazy, you said you changed your own brakes. Take it to a shop and have the codes read, there will be a charge for this. So you screw the brakes up and you want a shop to fix it over the phone with your questions?1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Brakes?It could be that a wire broke when you changed the rotors %26amp; pads.It could be the sensor..this is why there is On-board diagonostics to diagnose the problem.It may just be the mechanics knew you wanted something for nothing, not lazy or baffled.They may have just been miffed.Regardless you can take your car to an auto-zone for a free computer check of the codes.Mind you codes need to be deciphered.
83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?
Ok for anyone who was following my mechanical escapades last night, I finally got it!! Everything kept coming up wrong cause I didn't understand what HEI was. I was starting at the 6:30 position and when husband woke up this morning I asked him what HEI was and he told me I instantly knew where I went wrong....start at 5:30. (Thank you Mickey!)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c339/Gunny819/vehicles/HEIdistibutor_1.jpg
I ran out and jumped in and started changing things, husband looked at me like I lost my marbles, (ok that happened long ago). Then I told him to hit the key and Wall-A!
Turns out he had the #6 and the #8 mixed up at the beginning, but I'm looking too good right now so I leave that point out, lol. Then I insisted he tell me how to change the distributor cap and rotor and let me do it myself because yep, I was having fun now, lol. Seriously this is fun, at least it is on old vehicles where you have room that is!
Anyway sorry this isn't really a question, I just wanted to thank everyone that helped me!83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Yeah!!!
Good for you.83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Very good Grasshopper, heh heh...I see you found number one on the distributor, left side of the dwell adjust door...right where it suppose to be!!! You desrve a pat on the back awright, for correcting the problem. *Thumbs up*can anybody advise me on computer wont start up
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c339/Gunny819/vehicles/HEIdistibutor_1.jpg
I ran out and jumped in and started changing things, husband looked at me like I lost my marbles, (ok that happened long ago). Then I told him to hit the key and Wall-A!
Turns out he had the #6 and the #8 mixed up at the beginning, but I'm looking too good right now so I leave that point out, lol. Then I insisted he tell me how to change the distributor cap and rotor and let me do it myself because yep, I was having fun now, lol. Seriously this is fun, at least it is on old vehicles where you have room that is!
Anyway sorry this isn't really a question, I just wanted to thank everyone that helped me!83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Yeah!!!
Good for you.83 Chevy small block wires...I got it! You all probably thought I never would, lol?Very good Grasshopper, heh heh...I see you found number one on the distributor, left side of the dwell adjust door...right where it suppose to be!!! You desrve a pat on the back awright, for correcting the problem. *Thumbs up*
How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?
I have an '05 Scion TC. I'm on Avid H4s that still have a good amount of tread left. The front pads and rotors have been replaced within the last 6 months. Basically, I took the car to a trusted mechanic here in town and he said the back brakes were at 15% and that the rotors should also be replaced as they're in very bad shape. My older brother talked me out of the work by saying that I'm just being ripped off and that back brakes aren't that important. Needless to say, the last thing I remember hearing are a grinding noise as I tried to brake my car as my Scion flew straight into the side out of the road towards the metallic barrier. FYI, I wasn't even going that fast when I applied the brakes and I applied them exactly how you are supposed to apply ABS brakes. So...could this have been avoided if I had simply changed the rear pads/rotors, or is this grinding sound on my brakes more likely due to an ABS problem or tires that are ill-equipped to drive in wet conditions?How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?grinding noises aren't normal and I would bet your rear brakes are into the rotors chewing them away, get your rear brakes checked now.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?Did you have the front pads changed? And did the mechanic remove the rear pads? Very rare that this can happen but I witnessed once a mechanic put the pads in the front on backwards leaving the non pad side to make contact with the rotor. This will prevent ANY type of braking from happening. If nothing had been changed, and it worked fine before this, I would say the rotors just got wet and basically lubricated the pads to the point they were ineffective.How come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?That grinding noise is probably metal on metal on those brakes that your intelligent brother said aren`t that important. Now go get the back brakes replaced and hope that the fronts are ok. Check with your brother, Maybe if you have new back brakes , maybe you won`t need the front ones. After all, the manufacturer only put 4 wheel disc brakes on a car to jack up the price. Safety has nothing to do with itHow come every time it is even a little wet on the road, my brakes lock up and I lose all control?HI
Tell your older BROTHER to get lost.. if he don't care enough about you to tell you that back breaks aren't important... all cars a equipped with 4 WHEEL BREAKS for a reason.. to help the car stop swiftly and safely.. it well take a car twice as far to stop with only one set of breaks.
good luck
tim
Tell your older BROTHER to get lost.. if he don't care enough about you to tell you that back breaks aren't important... all cars a equipped with 4 WHEEL BREAKS for a reason.. to help the car stop swiftly and safely.. it well take a car twice as far to stop with only one set of breaks.
good luck
tim
How come my truck will not start? more inside...?
ok few months back my truck stopped working in the middle of the road..had gas, changed battery and cables-still didn't work..*brought to a mechanic and he changed the distributor cap and rotor etc i forget what all and that was a pretty penny*...
so now all of a sudden it will not start again, i do hear this clicking noise coming from this relay box...also my dad had asked some guys at work and they said it might be the starter solenoid-assuming it is this relay or starter solenoid, about how much does this cost to replace and could we change this or should a mechanic fix the problem?
--if we changed it, give the approx. cost--
--if a mechanic fixes the problem, approx. cost--
thanks
*since it was a few months back when i had brought to that one mechanic who charged me up the YEAA, should i bring it back to him and tell him to fix for free or someone elseHow come my truck will not start? more inside...?it could be dirty or loose battery terminals, a bad starter or solenoid.How come my truck will not start? more inside...?hi ok if your truck does not crank then the first place to start is at the battery connections. make sure they are clean and tight no black hard residue either. then if that does not work you can remove the battery and starter and have them checked at auto-zone that's free by the way. That's about where you should stop considering the rest of the checks can be hard for the inexperienced. and it helps when you ask a automotive question if you include the year, make, model, and if it is a automatic or standard. hope that helps.
so now all of a sudden it will not start again, i do hear this clicking noise coming from this relay box...also my dad had asked some guys at work and they said it might be the starter solenoid-assuming it is this relay or starter solenoid, about how much does this cost to replace and could we change this or should a mechanic fix the problem?
--if we changed it, give the approx. cost--
--if a mechanic fixes the problem, approx. cost--
thanks
*since it was a few months back when i had brought to that one mechanic who charged me up the YEAA, should i bring it back to him and tell him to fix for free or someone elseHow come my truck will not start? more inside...?it could be dirty or loose battery terminals, a bad starter or solenoid.How come my truck will not start? more inside...?hi ok if your truck does not crank then the first place to start is at the battery connections. make sure they are clean and tight no black hard residue either. then if that does not work you can remove the battery and starter and have them checked at auto-zone that's free by the way. That's about where you should stop considering the rest of the checks can be hard for the inexperienced. and it helps when you ask a automotive question if you include the year, make, model, and if it is a automatic or standard. hope that helps.
Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?
I have a Chevy 383 stroker with a Edelbrock 650cfm thunder series carb. MSD HEI distributer running proper spark plugs. I tuned in the car and it ran wonderfully for about a half hour. Sounded great, heard the cam in it and everything. Took it out for a drive and came home and it didn't idle worth a ****. So I ended up trying to retune it and that didn't help any. I asked on here and someone said I fouled my plugs. So I got new spark plugs and that didn't help any. So I changed my distributer cap and rotor, that didn't help. I rebuilt the carb since I was hearing a hissing sound that was louder than it used to be, that didn't help.
Now smaller details.
I have a manual choke, it runs fine with the choke about half way out. Sounds good and everything, so that's what is making me think it's a vacuum leak now.
If I leave the choke half way out and I start to accelerate, the car starts running like **** and sputtering and has no *** to it, push the choke back in and it gets it all back and it's acting like a turbo or something kicking in. It's more like it's getting the proper amount of air.
Now, I can get the car to idle but the rpm is in the 1700 range, before I had it about 900 when it was running smooth before the spark plug change. And with the idle at 1700, it sounds like **** too until I start giving it some throttle.
I attempted to change the vacuum advance canister today and that didn't work out since I couldn't figure out how to get the canister out. I got the 2 screws out that hold it in, but the little lever part wouldn't push down far enough since it was hitting the base of the distributer, not sure if there is soemthing else I have to take off, I only removed the cap and rotor to get to it.
I checked all hoses, replaced the PCV hose and the PCV valve itself. The seal that the valve goes into isn't tight against the valve cover but the hissing sound is coming from the passenger side of the car, somewhere near the back maybe. I sprayed carb cleaner at every sealing surface back there to listen for a idle change and I never heard one. And... it seems that when I leave the choke in, the car sometimes will idle fine at a traffic light or something, but then suddenly it just takes a **** and almost dies on me, I have to smack the gas pedal and pull the choke out part way if the light decides to take a while.
Has a thumpr series cam, 479 intake, 465 exhaust. And most people ask what car it's in, it's in a 94 Camaro, so that's not gonna help much but I told you anyway. So I know the car idles because it has idled before, the car still hauls *** and can kick the **** out of cars on the highway like it always has been able to, but it just won't idle reliably.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?since it gets better with the choke active, id bet that you have a lean mixture issue. take both mixture screws and turn them all the way in, now back them out 2 and a half turns, see if that does it.
because you also mention a hissing, look EVERY where for a vacuum line that is off, or a cracked intake even. i hate looking for a vacuum leak, it can be any thing. you just might try the old trick, with it running, spray carb cleaner around any point where you have a gasket on the intake, if the rpm picks up, note the location and replace that gasket. it could be a warped manifold too.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?sounds like your low speed jet, could be cloggedor restrictedCar doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?ck basic compression , invest in a heat gun and see if all header tubes or manifold coming out of head are hot and same temp look for low temp you may have vacuum leak or other problem if temp is low , do with choke off and whatever is the lowest idle without dying .
Now smaller details.
I have a manual choke, it runs fine with the choke about half way out. Sounds good and everything, so that's what is making me think it's a vacuum leak now.
If I leave the choke half way out and I start to accelerate, the car starts running like **** and sputtering and has no *** to it, push the choke back in and it gets it all back and it's acting like a turbo or something kicking in. It's more like it's getting the proper amount of air.
Now, I can get the car to idle but the rpm is in the 1700 range, before I had it about 900 when it was running smooth before the spark plug change. And with the idle at 1700, it sounds like **** too until I start giving it some throttle.
I attempted to change the vacuum advance canister today and that didn't work out since I couldn't figure out how to get the canister out. I got the 2 screws out that hold it in, but the little lever part wouldn't push down far enough since it was hitting the base of the distributer, not sure if there is soemthing else I have to take off, I only removed the cap and rotor to get to it.
I checked all hoses, replaced the PCV hose and the PCV valve itself. The seal that the valve goes into isn't tight against the valve cover but the hissing sound is coming from the passenger side of the car, somewhere near the back maybe. I sprayed carb cleaner at every sealing surface back there to listen for a idle change and I never heard one. And... it seems that when I leave the choke in, the car sometimes will idle fine at a traffic light or something, but then suddenly it just takes a **** and almost dies on me, I have to smack the gas pedal and pull the choke out part way if the light decides to take a while.
Has a thumpr series cam, 479 intake, 465 exhaust. And most people ask what car it's in, it's in a 94 Camaro, so that's not gonna help much but I told you anyway. So I know the car idles because it has idled before, the car still hauls *** and can kick the **** out of cars on the highway like it always has been able to, but it just won't idle reliably.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?since it gets better with the choke active, id bet that you have a lean mixture issue. take both mixture screws and turn them all the way in, now back them out 2 and a half turns, see if that does it.
because you also mention a hissing, look EVERY where for a vacuum line that is off, or a cracked intake even. i hate looking for a vacuum leak, it can be any thing. you just might try the old trick, with it running, spray carb cleaner around any point where you have a gasket on the intake, if the rpm picks up, note the location and replace that gasket. it could be a warped manifold too.Car doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?sounds like your low speed jet, could be cloggedor restrictedCar doesn't idle, but drives perfectly. What do I do?ck basic compression , invest in a heat gun and see if all header tubes or manifold coming out of head are hot and same temp look for low temp you may have vacuum leak or other problem if temp is low , do with choke off and whatever is the lowest idle without dying .
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